Believe it or not, despite the region’s rich, Ancient Roman winemaking history, only a few estates in Rioja have existed for more than a century and Bodegas Riojanas is among them. The town of Haro is where you’ll find historic heavyweight bodegas like López de Heredia, La Rioja Alta, and CVNE, but not all of the legends are based here. Riojanas set up shop 12 miles southeast, in the town of Cenicero, in 1890. The size of production today is staggering, as is the case with most of its elite neighbors, but make no mistake: they are among the most respected properties in Rioja. 

On release, Riojanas’ wines are always so quintessential and classic, but with decades upon decades of evolution, you’re entering rarefied “sweet spot” territory. This is when Tempranillo and French/American oak flavors have become fully integrated, creating a masterful red of deep nuance, savory complexity, and Burgundian refinement. 

Proper service is important for wines of antiquity, so please read the following carefully. First, stand your bottle upright for several days (preferably weeks, if you have the time) to allow the sediment and wine to “settle” from its transatlantic journey. When opening, I strongly recommend extracting the cork with an ah-so opener, and here’s a quick demonstration video if needed. Better still is a Durand, a must-have for lovers of long-aged wines.