Depending on where you are in the Santa Cruz Mountains, you might be standing in a world-class Cabernet Sauvignon vineyard, or a world-class Syrah vineyard, or a world-class Pinot Noir vineyard. Few regions anywhere in the world are this hospitable to such a diverse range of varieties (I haven’t even touched on the white options), and one of the most articulate, passionate evangelists for the Santa Cruz Mountains AVA is Ted Glennon—sommelier, winemaker, educator, and several other things, all of them in the service of great wine. 

If you live on the West Coast and love wine, chances are you’ve crossed paths with Ted at some point, and if you’ve subscribed to SommSelect for any length of time, you may recognize his Vöcal Vineyards logo. Working with an assortment of growers in the Santa Cruz Mountains and other appellations influenced by the deep, cold Monterey Bay, Ted doesn’t just make the case for the region as an educator/ambassador: His “Lilo Vineyard” Pinot Noir speaks louder than words. Actually, let me rephrase that: This elegant, balanced, lifted Pinot Noir need not shout to be heard or remembered. It’s like a quiet, contemplative walk through a mossy redwood grove, as pitch-perfect an evocation of place as anything we’ve offered from Burgundy, Oregon, the Sonoma Coast, you name it. Not that we needed reminding, but the Santa Cruz Mountains deserve a prominent position on the Pinot Noir marquee! 

If we did need reminding, meanwhile, Ted would be the guy to do it. His knowledge of, and passion for, the wine culture of the Santa Cruz Mountains is immense. In the Lilo Vineyard, which is perched above the town of Aptos at elevations ranging from 800 to 1,100 feet, he has a source vineyard which, in his view, communicates the unique qualities of Santa Cruz Mountain Pinot Noir as well as any. Lilo sits in a “half-bowl” with a full-south exposure,
putting it right in the path of cooling winds from Monterey Bay. Rooted in sandy-loam soils and surrounded by redwood groves, it’s not an easy site to get to, or to work, but one sip of this wine proves the effort is well worth it.

The Monterey Bay is one of the five deepest sea points on earth, extending down some 2.2 miles, and that bone-chilling water creates the kind of ocean currents that make a 90-degree day in Salinas seem comfortable. The combination of cold air and all-day sun exposure creates Pinot Noir that is at once racy and juicy—a rare combination in California, or anywhere, for that matter. Glennon (in collaboration with acclaimed winemaker Ian Brand) incorporates about 25% whole clusters during fermentation, then ages the wine in used French oak barrels for 18 months before bottling.

The result, in the spirit of the greatest red Burgundies, is a wine that offers direct transport to the place it was made: When you take your first sip, remember that it comes from a high-elevation site overlooking the Monterey Bay, surrounded by redwoods, and it makes total sense. In the glass, it displays a translucent garnet red core moving to a pink rim, with lots of red cherry and wild strawberry aromas and a healthy dusting of warm spice, wild herbs, and loamy earth. It is medium-plus in body, with a firm backbone—it doesn’t skimp on the quenching acidity or the fine tannins, which gives it a very upright, Burgundian feel on the palate (for us the place that comes to mind is Chambolle-Musigny, known for Pinots of lacy delicacy). Decant it for 30+ minutes before serving in Burgundy stems with some roasted Pacific salmon, coq au vin, or, if you’re feeling fancy, a crown roast of lamb or pork. This is one of the best domestic Pinot Noirs we’ve offered all year, so don’t miss it!