There can be no doubt: Thee & Thou’s pure, fantastically alive wines are the current domestic obsession here at SommSelect. After the “Devoilée” Cabernet blend we offered demonstrated winemaker John Donaghue’s deft touch, today’s Grenache-Syrah red continues the hot streak. In short, this is “new-age California” at its most inspiring.

“El Rucio” serves up sun-kissed, generously textured red and purple fruits backed by an energetic lift no one thought the Golden State was capable of just a few years ago. John Donaghue’s minimalist ethos in the cellar—all spontaneous ferments, no new oak, only a drop of sulfur—lets, as he puts it, “the vineyard, soil, and weather speak through.” So, if your first thoughts when you think of California wine are luxe, heavy-bottled collectibles and ostentatious tasting rooms, it’s time to reconsider. This is the real, dirt-under-the-fingernails deal…for $30!

John Donaghue, a San Francisco native, was originally a skyscraper engineer. In 2010, he took up a harvest position with Gideon Beinstock at Clos Saron in the Sierra Foothills. Gideon is something of a cult figure in the California wine world. For one thing, Clos Saron was literally once the home of a cult that happened to make wine. For another, under his guidance, a small but passionate band of natural-minded producers has cropped up in this hot and arid portion of central California. Winemakers like John have gotten their start in his cellars, learning the crafts of organic farming and hands-off wine production. After working for Gideon for two years, John struck out to forge his own path.

Now, John makes his wine on Treasure Island, between San Francisco and Oakland. The location is prime, allowing him to cast a wider net when hunting for special sites throughout the state. Such is the case today: While most of John’s production remains centered around the Sierra Foothills, the Grenache and Syrah for “El Rucio” come from the biodynamic “Demetria Vineyard” in the Santa Ynez Valley, a sub-AVA of Santa Barbara. North facing, steep-sloped vineyards at 1,400 feet of elevation ensure fruit here retains savory tension to stand up to the plush fruit imbued by the Central Coast sun. John transported the fruit—60% Grenache, 40% Syrah—from Demetria then spontaneously fermented the two varieties together, 100% whole cluster. After primary fermentation, it was put in neutral barrels to rest untouched for 16 months. It saw only a touch of sulfur after malolactic and then another small addition before bottling. It all adds up to a clean, fruit-driven, incredibly vivacious bottling.

Give Thee & Thou’s “El Rucio” a quick decant to allow a faint prickle of CO2 to blow off and you’re in for a wild ride. The nose soars with a melange of lush red and purple fruits: Bing cherry, candied strawberry, raspberry preserves, fresh boysenberry, and blackcurrant. Cinnamon, anise, tobacco, and prominent violet aromas follow behind. The palate is a touch over medium-bodied in weight, with a wash of juicy acidity coming in to keep it fresh and thirst-quenching. Red and black berries continue on the palate, with a touch of Syrah’s signature pepper and olive adding some delicious savor. The tannins are moderate and finely grained, and while I want to drink as much of this as I can right now, I’ve no doubt this will really develop some additional complexity in 2-3 more years. Thee & Thou wines might be made like wines of centuries past, but they promise a brilliant future for California!