Here it is: A soupçon of Jean-Louis Chave’s universally prized and beloved 2018 “L’Hermitage” Rouge, a towering Grand Vin that makes all other Syrahs stand still. Judged alongside the legendary likes of French titans DRC, Lafite, and Rayas, Chave’s ancient family estate is a region/style/variety-defining wine dynasty that takes Hermitage to mythical levels with each explosive release. In fact, no bottle more faithfully encompasses the history and soul of this fabled region as expressed through the Syrah grape, substantiated by the flawless triple-digit reviews today’s 2018 is currently receiving.
Critics aside, trust us when we say that seldom is a wine treated with such passion and reverence. Generations of collectors have savored, cellared, and showcased this holy grail—it has become a mandatory crown jewel for any serious wine collection. Although these reds have become far too rare and prestigious to sample, we were fortunate enough to trek through Chave’s ancient wine vaults two years ago, where we tasted site-specific barrel samples of the ’18 vintage on offer and listened to Jean-Louis describe each intricacy in eloquent detail. On that day, their legendary status was cemented for us: Chave Hermitage is the gold standard, not just for Syrah but all of wine. NOTE: This is our smallest allocation in years.
As one drives north through the Rhône Valley toward Burgundy, the hill of Hermitage dominates the horizon. This towering granite hillside looms over the small village of Tain-l'Hermitage and is world renown for producing deep, timeless, and infinitely cellar-worthy Syrah. In this historic appellation, one family estate has been producing elite wines longer than any other: Domaine Jean-Louis Chave. It is an accepted truth that Chave’s Hermitage Rouge is simply one of the most compelling and complex wines on the planet. One of my favorite wine scholars, Jancis Robinson MW, has said that in the entire northern Rhône Valley “no one is more respected than Domaine Jean Louis Chave.” And it’s true: this is a defining wine from all angles, gracing virtually every 3-star Michelin wine list I’ve seen. It is a certified, time-tested classic and a necessary benchmark for any wine collector or enthusiast who wishes to familiarize his/herself with the world’s top tier of red wines.
Chave’s signature “L’Hermitage” is a top selection of lieux-dits Peleat, Les Beaume, Ermite, Meal, and Bessards with the latter making up the largest portion of the blend. We remember tasting this specific barrel sample like it was moments ago: It was utterly pure and soft with haunting perfumes that collided with a deeply mineral, smoky, blue/black-fruited palate—and this was when it was still in the first leg of its long aging process. In the winery, all parcels vinify and age separately. Nearly all grapes are de-stemmed and the site-specific vinifications occur in a combination of wooden and stainless steel vats. Due to the warmth and concentration of 2018, Chave avoided punch-downs and shortened the juice’s time on skins—a brilliant decision. The wine was then transferred into mostly used 228-liter French barrels for nearly 30 months. Afterward, the lieux-dits were meticulously blended together and the wine was bottled unfined.
Always a rich, complex, textural masterpiece, Chave’s “L’Hermitage” delivers a formidable Syrah experience, with exotic spice, smoke, crushed granite, leather, cured meat, savory herbs, and the purest olive tapenade money can buy. As the wine evolves in its first few years, you can generally expect dense, hearty surges of brambleberries, plum, crème de cassis, and black cherry liqueur to reel you in and keep you captivated for minutes and hours. But it’s the marriage of supernatural energy, breathtaking grace, and muscle-bound power on the opulent palate that’s Chave’s coveted signature. If enjoying over the next three years, decant for 2-3 hours, serve in massive Bordeaux stems around 65 degrees, and save a glass or two for the following day. Because curiosity is bound to trump patience, I highly recommend you buy more than one so that your others can mature over the next several decades. I wouldn’t be at all surprised if this was still humming on its 50th birthday. Give it time and it will reward you infinitely—this is one of the greatest experiences in the world of wine. Cheers!
