Don’t let the whimsical label on today’s wine fool you: There’s a serious white wine inside that bottle. Up until recently, you would have had to trek to the French Alps to drink some, but no one with Raphaël Saint-Germain’s passion and talent remains undiscovered for long. He’s one of the most respected organic growers in the Savoie and a champion of local grape varieties, making him the perfect ambassador for this spectacular Alpine growing zone—which grows ever more popular with lovers of mineral, spring-loaded white wines.

“Crac Boum’Bu” is a kitchen-sink evocation of everything the Savoie has to offer, a field blend of Jacquère, Chardonnay, and Malvoisie—with some Verdesse, Petite Arvine, Altesse, and Sauvignon as well—that crackles with energy and unfolds in layers. We were all blown away by it, not least because its packaging suggests more of a simple, straightforward quaffer; instead, what you get is a wine that channels the greats of Chablis while adding in some mountain-meadow florals and a hint of Rhône-like texture. It delivers the kind of crystalline purity one would expect from such a remote, unspoiled place—a terroir special enough to lure Champagne-trained winemaker (and paragliding enthusiast) Fabrice Bouché to the tiny Saint-Germain property in the village of Saint-Pierre d’Albigny. What the Saint-Germain team is extracting from these glacial soils is as pure and transparent as wine gets, so don’t miss the opportunity to grab some of this extraordinary rarity for yourself. Believe me, you’ll be circling your calendar for the next vintage release!

The picture-postcard vineyards of Saint-Germain, now totaling 12 hectares, face the Alps and sit in the shadow of the Arclusaz Mountains in the famed Combe de Savoie—a broad, glacial valley wherein the southerly exposures of the vineyards helps ensure ripeness in an otherwise cold mountain climate. Raphaël Saint-Germain and his brother, Étienne, originally founded their estate in 1999, farming about 3 hectares of vines in Saint-Pierre d’Albigny, which sits right next door to the well-known cru village of Saint-Jean-de-la-Porte. Étienne eventually moved on but Raphaël continued to build the estate’s holdings and obtain organic certification, which they received in 2012. In soils of clay/limestone, sandstone, and quartz, Saint-Germain and his team are fiercely devoted to the native grapes of the region—not just well-known varieties like Jacquère, Altesse, and Mondeuse, but also Douce Noir, Persan, Mondeuse Blanche, and Verdesse.
 
The varietal mix in “Crac Boum’Bu” changes slightly from vintage to vintage, but its core trio is the one mentioned above: Jacquère, Chardonnay, and Mondeuse Blanche. The 2020 was vinified in stainless steel, with the chilly winter cellar conditions eliminating the need for fining and filtration. Combined with low temperatures, the high acidity of the fruit lets it stay clean and stable despite low-tech, minimalist winemaking; cold stabilization occurs naturally. Only a tiny addition of sulfur takes place prior to packaging in the lightest possible wine bottles, adorned with labels made from the domaine’s recycled grape skins, and capped with 98% recycled cork. 
 
Think Chablis meets Galician Albariño, for the flavor and texture profile of today’s wine. Intense, crackling, mineral-drenched alpine acidity enlivens this refreshing, saline wine, which feels deceptively lightweight considering its waxy, creamy mouthfeel. Floral and stone fruit notes grace the nose and palate of this vibrant, elegant, beautifully balanced white. There’s a real Burgundian sensibility to the high-toned green and yellow apple, peach, lemon zest, and yellow flower notes, accented by a cool wet granite character that makes this wine feel like it’s running off a river rock straight into your mouth. This is a versatile food wine that will pair perfectly with most appetizers, grilled fish, charcuterie, or classic Savoyard fare like fondue, raclette, or tartiflette, a potato and bacon casserole filled with melty, cheesy goodness. Decant it for 30 minutes before serving in large Burgundy stems, and enjoy over the next two to three years while the fruit is still lively, vivid, and bright.