Like the Chave family in the Northern Rhône, the Gras family of the Southern Rhône has achieved icon status. And these days, both families produce négociant wines that utilize fruit sourced from some of their neighbors—wines which, in both cases, are a lot more than just famous producers cashing in on their notoriety. 

In fact, I’d argue that the stakes for Yves and Benjamin Gras, and their acclaimed Domaine Santa Duc, are as high for their négociant wines as for their estate-bottled wines. We’re talking about an estate that dates to 1874, one that isn’t only the reference point for Gigondas but one of the great interpreters of Châteauneuf-du-Pape as well. If Chave is synonymous with Syrah, Gras is synonymous with Grenache—Grenache of exquisite finesse and aromatic complexity, supported by the Southern Rhône’s dynamic cast of characters: Syrah, Mourvèdre, Cinsault, etc. As the wines of Domaine Santa Duc have continued to grow in popularity, critical acclaim—and, as a result, price—the Famille Gras lineup has emerged as perhaps the greatest value-for-dollar proposition in the Southern Rhône. Working with organic and biodynamic growers they know and respect, Yves and Benjamin deliver this multi-dimensional, old-vine stunner at a “shelf-stacker” price. It’s one of the most exciting, energy-packed wines I’ve encountered from the Southern Rhône in quite some time: believe me, there are Châteauneufs costing twice as much that can’t compete with this!

It’s a familiar SommSelect refrain, I know, but the secret to Santa Duc’s success has been their uncanny ability to achieve balance in their wines. In a region where sunshine (and heat) is abundant, alcohol and extract creep up fast, making balance easier to talk about than to execute. We know it is possible, of course—there are a select few who manage to coax Pinot Noir-like finesse and perfume from Grenache, and I’d count Yves Gras, who took over the family estate in 1985, as one of them. Although Benjamin Gras officially took the reins of the estate in 2017, Yves’ influence still looms large at Santa Duc: He was the one to really turn down the volume, and turn up the clarity, of the Santa Duc wines. A few of his touches include: no more small barrels (replaced with larger casks and terracotta amphorae); less extraction; and less whole-bunch fermentation. These adjustments have produced results across the whole range of Santa Duc wines, from Gigondas to Châteauneuf-du-Pape to Vacqueyras.

The Famille Gras line currently features both a red and white Côte du Rhone bottling, the former sourced from cool-climate sites near Santa Duc’s home base in Gigondas, in the shadow of the Dentelles de Montmirail mountain range. The source vineyards extend across appellations so the soils are mixed, with some parcels planted in sand and others in iron-rich red clay or limestone marl. Grenache drives the blend, but there are smaller percentages of Syrah, Mourvèdre, Carignane, Cinsault, and Counoise. Fruit is fully de-stemmed and fermented/aged in stainless steel tanks to preserve as much freshness and lift as possible.

And I’m happy to report that the no-oak regimen worked: This is that rare Southern Rhône wine that combines richness and freshness in an almost magical way. Alcohol is moderate, the tannins are silky smooth, and the bright acidity lifts everything up. Make no mistake, it’s a bold and fruity wine, with a deep ruby hue and lots of black and purple fruit on the nose, but there’s also a pleasingly rustic, slightly herbal note that calls to mind old-school Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Notes of black raspberry, cherry kirsch, dried strawberry, violets, licorice, warm spices, wild herbs, and dusty earth linger on the medium-plus-bodied palate, culminating in a long, aromatic, sweet/savory finish. Decanting never hurts, but it isn’t necessary here: Just pull the cork 15 minutes or so before serving at 60 degrees in Burgundy stems. Lamb dishes would be a great choice with this wine, especially dishes like tagine that incorporate some exotic spices. The combination will transport you straight to the garrigue-scented hills of the southern Rhône, even if the recipe is from even further south. Enjoy!