[Every so often, fine-dining pro and Master Sommelier Vincent Morrow makes a guest appearance to feature one of his favorite wines of the moment. Vincent has worked at iconic restaurants across the spectrum—you’ll currently find him at Press in the Napa Valley—so when he speaks, we listen!] 

One of the greatest experiences in my sommelier career was having the opportunity to work the 2020 harvest in Germany, a country and culture I've studied and admired for many years. And while a sommelier’s craft is centered around the service of guests, the invaluable knowledge gained from working harvest and being “in the field” afforded me an even deeper understanding of German winemaking. Needless to say, witnessing the devastating floods in the Ahr Valley was heartbreaking, and continues to be as more information trickles out. Many were affected. Some may never recover. 

Ahr Pinot Noirs have long commanded the world’s attention for their purity and precision, and the region needs that attention now more than ever. So, it is with great pleasure that we can offer you the tiniest parcel of Kreuzberg’s “Devonschiefer” Spätburgunder. Culled only from a prized collection of Grand Cru (Grosses Gewächs) vineyards and vinified by Ludwig Kreuzberg and Albert Schamaun—of Dujac and Fèvre fame—today’s 2019 is Pinot Noir brilliance. It has Santa Barbara perfume, Burgundian elegance, and Germany’s spicy, woodsy signature. It’s stunning. Best of all, you can savor it knowing that a portion of your money will be used to help rebuild those affected in the Ahr, including Weingut Kreuzberg.

NOTE: In light of the catastrophic floods that left a wake of destruction in the Ahr Valley, we will be donating 5% of today’s proceeds to a relief and reconstruction fund set up by the VDP, Germany’s wine-governing body. You can learn more about it here and here. 

Located in central west Germany, the Ahr Valley has become a North Star for the country’s great Spätburgunders (Pinot Noir), and despite its northerly latitude, roughly half the region is planted to the grape. This is due to extremely steep, south-facing slopes of slate along the Ahr river that provide the exposure and warmth necessary to ripen Pinot Noir in an otherwise challenging climate. Today, stewards such as Meyer-Näkel, Stodden, and Kreuzberg harness these vineyards to set the benchmark for world-class Pinot Noir production.

Weingut Kreuzberg is a standout amongst German Spätburgunder. Founded in 1953 by Hermann-Josef Kreuzberg in the village of Dernau, Kreuzberg has consistently been considered among the top Pinot Noir producers in Germany. The estate has grown to encompass nine hectares of vineyards throughout the region, focused primarily on Grosses Gewächs (German “Grand Cru”) vineyards. Technical Director, Albert Schamaun, joined the winery in 2014, bringing 20 years of experience to the Kreuzbergs, including stints at Domaine Dujac and William Fèvre. With collaborative expertise in sustainable farming and careful attention to the winemaking process, Ludwig and Albert continue to produce the region’s most exciting wines. 

The Devonschiefer (“Devon” = Devonian; “schiefer” = slate) bottling is sourced from 40-50-year-old vines in Grosses Gewächs vineyards that do not make it into Kreuzberg’s single-vineyard bottlings. These mostly south-facing hillside vineyards provide ample sun exposure and excellent drainage, producing beautiful, consistent fruit each vintage. These declassified bottlings from producers are the “insider” wines sommeliers often seek out to provide guests world-class vino at an incredible value. Particularly as the price of Burgundy continues to rise end-over-end each vintage, German producers like Kreuzberg are receiving more and more (well-deserved) attention.

The 2019 “Devonschiefer” Spätburgunder matured for just under one year in second- and third-use French barriques and was bottled without fining. It pours a ruby core in the glass that fades gently to a pink rim. On the nose is Spätburgunder at its best; a seductively aromatic wine that leads with forest floor, warm slate, and a deep “bass” of red & black fruit. On the palate, the wine proceeds with tones of savory herbs and crushed black cherry, quickly gaining momentum towards a powerful, racy finish. I highly recommend opening and decanting this wine 30-60 minutes in advance of enjoyment as it picks up steam with air. Serve this in a Burgundy stem (a Riedel Pinot Noir glass is perfect) at a few degrees above cellar temperature and observe as it evolves. Pour this alongside traditional German fare; my go-to during my time in the country was spätzle with chicken or pork schnitzel and braised red cabbage. While this is drinking well now (with air), it will continue to evolve and integrate beautifully over time. Save a few bottles for the next 12 months and stash the rest of the case away—start pulling corks in 3-4 years and continue doing so until the 15-year mark.