We taste thousands of wines per year, many of which are from new and/or undiscovered producers but no matter how much this list swells, only a select few will forever hold a prominent position in my mind. So, for a wine to make such a huge impression that I eagerly await its release every year—especially one that’s never crossed the $40 threshold—is a huge deal. 

If you’ve been following us for a while, you’ll know that there’s never a question of “if” we will offer a new vintage of Domaine Combier’s Crozes-Hermitage, only “when” and “how much.” Known to insiders as the “white label,” this gorgeous Northern Rhône red is a testament to the spectacular capabilities of the so-called “lesser” terroirs that surround the prestigious hill of Hermitage. Organic farming brings out the best in Combier’s perfectly positioned holdings, resulting in a captivatingly delicious Syrah with the heady, intoxicating aromatics and textural beauty of a far more expensive wine. I never miss the opportunity to restock my cellar with Combier’s Crozes-Hermitage, and you shouldn’t either! 

Pont de l'Isère, Combier’s home base, has long been considered prime real estate for growing fruit—but grapes weren’t always the fruit of choice. When Maurice Combier purchased the property in 1962, he kept up his father’s tradition of growing apricots and peaches, alongside his Syrah vines, selling all of the produce to local cooperatives. By the 1970s, Maurice had gone and earned himself the nickname “Maurice le Fou” (Crazy Maurice) by getting deeply involved in organic viticulture, long before it was cool. But after seeing the results, the skeptics couldn’t remain skeptical for long, and soon thereafter, winemakers across Crozes-Hermitage were tossing out their chemicals in favor of a gentler, more natural approach. In the late 1980s, Maurice was joined by his son Laurent, and the pair eventually left the cooperative to increase their vineyard holdings. Today, the domaine comprises about 20 acres of vines across numerous villages, all just above Tain in close proximity to the hill of Hermitage. The property’s immediate proximity to that of Crozes-Hermitage superstar Alain Graillot is further evidence of Combier’s sublime location. 

While there are some similarities between the soils in Combier’s foothill sites and those of Hermitage, it wouldn’t be quite accurate to call today’s wine a “baby Hermitage.” But a wine this good can stand on its own merit; no need for comparisons. The fruit for this cuvée comes from a number of diverse sites within and around Pont de l'Isère, including a large proportion from Gervans, a village north of Tain whose granite bedrock indeed bears a strong resemblance to the soils of nearby Hermitage; the rest comes from various plots further south, made up of granite and loess or chalky, pebbly clay. The combination of these distinct sites can largely be credited for the wine’s stunning complexity, structure, and finesse. Of course, the Combier commitment to varietal purity and pristine, perfectly ripe organic fruit plays a pretty significant role there as well. Production remains pretty hands-off in the cellar: After a complete de-stemming, the grapes ferment in stainless steel before 12 months of aging in previously used French oak barrels. The wine sees just a touch of sulfur and the gentlest filtration prior to bottling. 

This spellbinding Syrah is Northern Rhône done right, from the very first glance. Nearly opaque in the glass, it’s a deep, intense ruby bordering on black with flashes of gorgeous violet and magenta toward the rim. Ample and generous yet restrained by piercing mineral acidity, it’s an aromatic knockout, redolent of overgrown fields of lavender and herbs de Provence. Brambly blackberries, raspberries, black plums, and wild blueberries dominate the soft, gently structured palate. A note of kalamata olive adds a satisfying, mouth-watering salinity that leaves you wanting more after every sip. This is so good right now, but it can also age another 5-7 years with great results, so it’s worth snagging a few bottles to enjoy its evolution over time. Whenever you decide to pop the cork, give it a 60-minute decant before serving around 60 degrees in Bordeaux stems. Pair this indulgent wine with something that’s just as delightfully flavorful, like this savory, herbal lamb ragout.