To fully appreciate the value proposition of today’s sensational white Burgundy, I’d encourage you to consult a map, because the “En Remilly'' Premier Cru reaches out and touches the most rarefied Chardonnay real estate on the planet—namely, the cluster of Grand Crus with “Montrachet” in their names. To put an even finer point on it, the small section of En Remilly that falls within Chassagne-Montrachet’s boundaries (most of the vineyard is in Saint-Aubin) is just around the corner from “Le Montrachet” itself and directly borders Chevalier-Montrachet. 

This is truly a stone’s throw, and you don’t even need a good arm—yet the price of Bouard-Bonnefoy’s sensational 2019 from En Remilly is many multiples lower than just about anything coming out of the various Montrachets. The tiny, family-run Bouard-Bonnefoy domaine has fast become a SommSelect favorite for Chassagne-Montrachet wines of incredible precision and considerable luxury, and this wine surely qualifies as special-occasion, dressed-up white Burgundy, even if it’s made by unassuming, hands-on vignerons in a garagiste winery. This is the second time we’ve managed to put hands on this audacious Burgundy value, and we’re able to allocate six bottles per customer until our supply disappears. You’ve got 15-20 years to work your way through them, but I doubt it’ll take that long!

We’ve built up quite a history with Bouard-Bonnefoy. After visiting with Fabrice Bouard a few years ago, and tasting through his Chassagne-focused lineup, I was convinced this domaine was poised for major stardom (in Burgundy circles anyway—they don’t make enough wine to become a mainstream “brand”). Fabrice is a career-changer, having spent many years as a bodyguard for French dignitaries before turning to a life in wine. His wife, Carinne Bonnefoy, brings the hereditary chops as the fourth generation of a Chassagne family of vintners. Their domaine (which touches Domaine Ramonet’s parcel of Chassagne 1er “Morgeot '') is a minuscule, farmstead-scale operation originally designed to supply locals, friends, and family with their hand-crafted wines. They farm roughly eight hectares of vines concentrated in Chassagne-Montrachet, most of them old-vine sites passed down from Carinne’s family, and during our visit we got to meet her father, who enjoys considerable renown in Chassagne for his skills with a plow. 

The family’s sustainably farmed parcel in “En Remilly” contains vines averaging 35 years of age, in soils characterized by very thin topsoils over the limestone “mother rock.” Unlike the various Montrachet Grand Crus, into which you can gaze from En Remilly’s upslope perch, the orientation of En Remilly is more full-south rather than east/southeast, and that ample sun exposure is readily evident in this opulent ’18: this is succulent, richly layered Chardonnay that is intriguing to drink now but is clearly still in its “baby fat” stage. This wine is clearly poised for a long and fascinating evolution, as Burgundy lovers will recognize on the first sip.

The hand-harvested fruit for “En Remilly” was pressed in Fabrice’s hand-cranked wooden press and fermented in French oak barrels. Aging in barrels (20% new) lasted about a year before bottling, lending a voluptuous creaminess to the texture and a subtle hint of baking spice to the flavor profile. In the glass, it’s a deep yellow-gold extending to the rim, with viscous, slow-moving “tears” coating the sides of the glass. The aromas are powerful and ripe, with notes of yellow apple, white peach, salted lemon, wildflower honey, fresh cream, and wet stones. It is full-bodied and layered, coating the palate before buttoning up on the crisp, mineral finish. It’s an exceptionally well-constructed white Burgundy, mixing power and nerve in the most seamless way. What’s fascinating about elite white Burgundies like this is that, after an hour or so in a decanter, the wine actually “firms up” a bit, showing more of its crispness and minerality the longer it’s open. If you collect Burgundy and believe in aging whites, this bottle is for you, and if you still have some on its 10th birthday I will invite myself over for what promises to be something special. Serve this in larger-sized Burgundy stems at 50-55 degrees for maximum aromatic expression, and pair it with something rich and satisfying enough to stand up to it. Affordable luxury at its best! Cheers!