One of the recurring themes in our Daily Offers has been the extraordinary value to be found in the “next door” appellations of Burgundy. In the Côte de Beaune, the “Big Three” are Meursault, Puligny-Montrachet, and Chassagne-Montrachet, but as savvy buyers know, they are not the beginning and end of the Burgundy Chardonnay discussion. Far from it. In fact, when I see the Saint-Aubin designation gracing a label, my pulse quickens—because time and again, Saint-Aubin wines perform at or above the level of their Chassagne/Puligny/Meursault counterparts.

When you consider some of the boldface names producing sought-after whites from the appellation (Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey; Hubert Lamy; Marc Colin), it seems outdated to characterize Saint-Aubin as a “next-door” appellation. Given the proximity of many Saint-Aubin vineyards to the assorted “Montrachet” Grand Crus, it makes more sense to treat the wines as legitimate peers to those of the Big Three, even if they don’t fetch the same prices. And, as if on cue, the ever-dynamic Remoissenet makes an iron-clad case for Saint-Aubin with this magnificent 2017. Since we launched SommSelect, we’ve watched with a mixture of delight and awe as this historic négociant firm has transformed itself into one of Burgundy’s most nimble, thoughtful, and wide-ranging explorers of the region’s terroir. They’ve done this by homing in on the greatest vineyards in the region, often purchasing parcels to complement what they get from contract growers, but in either instance, a focus on the very best raw material is paramount. It’s easy to see in this transcendent Saint-Aubin, a white that performs so far above its “village” designation it’s almost comical. Except, I’m dead serious: This white Burgundy must not be missed!  

Given how many Remoissenet Burgundies we’ve offered, both young and old, the story of this iconic brand is probably well-known by now: The firm, whose catacomb-like cellars in the town of Beaune hold an incredible library of back-vintage bottles, was acquired—and subsequently supercharged—by a new ownership group in 2005. A dream team of Burgundy talent was assembled to bring the once-moribund brand back to prominence: Cellar Master Bernard Répolt; GM Pierre Rovani; and Winemaker Claudie Jobard. They’ve re-established the property as a quality leader primarily through investments in vineyards and farming (Remoissenet-owned vineyards are farmed biodynamically, and all contract growers are either organic or in the process of conversion, under Remoissenet’s supervision). As big as Remoissenet is, it is entirely accurate to describe them as a micro-négociant—they are as hands-on and connected to their vineyard sources as it gets.

Their outsized influence has certainly helped them identify, and subsequently acquire, the greatest vineyards in just about any appellation they choose to work in. For today’s Saint-Aubin, they draw on organically farmed vines ranging in age from 30-50 years, their roots burrowing through very thin topsoil to reach the “mother rock” of limestone below.

There’s a silky, creamy quality to today’s 2017 that is consistent with the Remoissenet “house style,” but also a level of tension and mineral energy that takes the wine into pretty rarefied territory—there are countless Premier Cru whites that don’t come close, and even at this young stage in its life, the wine’s oak component (it ages in 228- and 342-liter barrels, 30% new) is already well-integrated. In the glass, today’s 2017 is a pale yellow-gold with flecks of green in the glass, with assertive, inviting aromas of yellow apple, white peach, citrus blossoms, salted lemon, fresh cream, subtle spice, and crushed stones. It is medium-plus in body and poised to put on more weight—muscle, not fat—as it matures, so do yourself a favor and squirrel some bottles away for revisiting in 5-7 years. This is impressive, luxurious white Burgundy—a great choice for chicken and fish dishes incorporating lemon and butter. Given our current political climate, it seemed a good time to dust off a classic like the recipe attached. This is truly impressive white Burgundy I’ll be revisiting often. Enjoy!