I was shocked when today’s wine was offered to us. Given the notoriety of “Terra di Lavoro,” and its relatively small production, I would have assumed that every bottle of the 2012 was either (a) drunk up already or (b) hidden away in private cellars around the world. But, to their credit, the folks at Fattoria Galardi keep a library of back vintages—a shrewd and confident move on their part, and a huge boon for anyone keen to experience one of southern Italy’s greatest reds with nearly a decade of age.
Having had the pleasure myself recently, I can confirm that this landmark bottle makes an incredibly convincing case for the Aglianico grape as grown in the volcanic soils of Campania. And while I’m shocked that it’s even available in the first place, I’m even more shocked by its price, which is much, much lower than I would have expected for a wine of such importance. The singularity and soulfulness of Terra di Lavoro really transcends the “cult wine” moniker it’s often tagged with; to me, it’s a one-of-a-kind wine on the order of Château-Grillet, Barca Velha, or, closer to home, Sassicaia. At this price, you’d be wise to take all six bottles we can offer you, as this ’12 is just getting started.
Although it was more than 20 years ago (sigh), I still vividly remember my visit to Fattoria Galardi, which is headquartered in the town of Sessa Aurunca, not far from Campania’s regional border with Lazio. It’s a small family property which, at the time of my visit, had a little bit of a “Grey Gardens” feel to both its buildings and vineyards—it felt kind of chaotic and aristocratic at the same time. When they founded their label in 1991, cousins Maria Luisa Murena, Arturo and Dora Celentano, and Francesco Catello described the project as more a labor of love than a commercial bonanza; their first order of business was to revitalize vineyards that were in an extremely remote, but historically significant, part of Campania.
Those vineyards amount to roughly 25 acres of high-altitude parcels on the western slopes of the spent Roccamonfina volcano, in the province of Caserta. Roccamonfina is part of the same coastal range as Monte Massico, where the ancient Romans once made falernum wine, the modern incarnation of which carries the Falerno del Massico DOC. Although Terra di Lavoro has the same grape composition as a typical Falerno (80% Aglianico, 20% Piedirosso), and Sessa Aurunca falls within the Falerno del Massico DOC boundaries, it was traditionally labeled simply as a “red wine from Campania.” It now carries a “Roccamonfina” geographic indication, or IGT.
“Terra di Lavoro” means “land of work” and was the ancient name given to the Caserta province. The vineyards at Galardi, rooted in black volcanic soil, reach up to 1,500 feet in elevation, eventually giving way to dense chestnut groves. No doubt there are other grape-growers here—it’s too great a terroir for there not to be—but my memory was of a place that truly felt like the middle of nowhere.
The intermingling of mountain- and sea-borne air currents (the Mediterranean is visible from the Galardi vineyards) creates a southern Italian red that is at once densely concentrated and full of energy. The brooding, dark-fruited Aglianico is given a lift by the Piedirosso, an ancient native grape which lends acidity, spice, and floral aromatics. In the glass, this 2012 is beginning to show signs of maturity, with some slight bricking at the rim, although the core remains dense and opaque, almost jet-black. The aromas are of Morello cherries, black plums, and violets, followed by a more resolutely savory component: tobacco, tar, leather, ground coffee, graphite roasted meat. Full-bodied and now rid of some of its youthful tannic bite, it has plumped up a bit around the middle but still has muscular definition. Decant it (watching for sediment) about 15-30 minutes before serving in Bordeaux stems and strap in for a high-powered blast of minerality and concentrated fruit. If you love classic old Bordeaux from the Left Bank, this drinks a lot like that but with a wilder side—pair it with something that will really point up the wine’s spice and meaty savor, like braised lamb shanks or a smoky style of barbecue. Repeat this every few years for the next 10 or so until your stash disappears. Cheers!
