If the Southern Rhône had turf wars, Châteauneuf-du-Pape and Gigondas would be constantly butting heads, because it’s no longer accurate to just hand CdP the crown. One major reason is terroir. While it is true that (a) both Gigondas and Châteauneuf are Grenache-based blends and (b) the two towns are only about 10 miles apart, they are nevertheless different. The vineyards of Châteauneuf-du-Pape are lower-lying hills and alluvial plateaus with high percentages of sand and river cobble, while the vineyards of Gigondas climb to higher elevations, into the foothills of the limestone-rich, shark-toothed mountain range called the Dentelles de Montmirail. Factor in a warming climate and Gigondas inches closer to the throne each year—at least for my palate! Furthermore, there’s just too much winemaking talent here, and Domaine du Grand Montmirail ranks among the best, even if they still remain under-the-radar (in spite of Robert Parker’s constant advocacy).
Today’s 2018 is Gigondas perfected: It’s a savory, satisfying French red that bridges the gap between “Old World” and “New.” There’s plenty of dark, expansive fruit on the palate, but it’s tempered beautifully by mouthwatering acidity, Southern Rhône muscle, and bright accents of earth, herbs, and spice. It’s an elevated everyday red, in that it’s versatile enough for almost any meal, mood, or atmosphere, but it has enough complexity, nuance, and character to enhance a special occasion. Don’t miss out!
In the 1960s, Burgundian-born Denis Chéron purchased the Cave du Grand Comtadiné domaine in Vacqueyras, where he established a négociant firm that allowed him to build strong relationships with the local growers whose wines he vinified. However, Chéron had his eye on a prime piece of land in an isolated area of southeastern Gigondas, in the shadow of the Dentelles mountain range. Owned by one of Chéron’s suppliers, Domaine du Grand Montmirail was in a unique position, ideally exposed to sun, but sheltered from the harsh mistral wind by a natural amphitheater. With an altitude ranging between 300-350 meters, it was among the highest in Gigondas, which led to unusually fresh acidity in the region’s bold red wines. The sedimentary clay soil, dotted with limestone, lent the wines a supple, approachable texture. When the owner of Grand Montmirail was ready to retire, there were many offers to purchase the property, some rather substantial—but Chéron, who had been a loyal associate for many years, was given the greenlight despite having a lower bid. Shortly after the estate changed hands, the vineyards were updated with an improved selection of plantings, and a new cellar was constructed. Today, the estate is run by Denis’ son, Yves, who took the reins after completing his enology studies in Beaune.
“Les Deux Juliette” is a classic GSM blend based on 80% Grenache from 55- to 65-year-old vines, supported by 15% Syrah, and 5% Mourvèdre from 30-year-old vines—all harvested manually. Yields are kept low to maximize concentration, especially among the terraced, older vines. The grapes are de-stemmed and lightly crushed in temperature-controlled cement tanks, and then the must is cooled for several days prior to fermentation to extract as much pigment and aromatic intensity as possible. The must is then fermented with indigenous yeast, followed by aging in underground enamel-lined tanks that naturally remain cool. After a minimal sulfur addition and a very light filtration, it is bottled without ever seeing any oak influence. “Les Deux Juliette” is so named for daughters of proprietor Yves Chéron and his friend/US importer, Charles Neal.
Fresh, wild, and brambly, today’s wine has a delightful personality that’s generous but not overbearing. Liquered fruits like kirsch and cassis explode on the nose, along with a sophisticated violet perfume and lively black peppercorn and spice. The soft, generous palate shows blackberry, mulberry, and plum fruit tinged with leather and the signature Gigondas herbal “garrigue” notes—rosemary, thyme, and sage—with an ultra-satisfying savory edge. Layered waves of warm, intoxicating notes of baking spice carry through from start to the long, satisfying finish. The appetizing freshness, smooth tannins, and earthy undertones of “Les Deux Juliette” make it an effortless pairing with just about any meat-based dish, whether you prefer a simple burger or charcuterie plate, or something more elaborate. Served at 60 degrees in a Bordeaux stem after a 30-minute decant, it would make a killer companion to fresh tagliatelle with wild boar ragù.
