Some of my best wine drinking experiences at SommSelect have been with bottles that completely shatter their stereotypes during a blind tasting, and Domaine de la Combe’s Muscadet did exactly that. 

In the realm of Muscadet, I often think of lean, salty, citrus-dominated white wines that perfectly fit the “palate refresher” mold. To be clear, there’s nothing wrong with this style—truth be told, few wines quench my thirst more than an ice-cold glass of Muscadet after a transatlantic flight. However, when crafted in a richer style, they can easily be mistaken for a premium Chablis. Such was the case at our table when this insanely affordable gem fell into our hands. Aside from high-quality winemaking, what makes great Muscadet so special is the region’s mosaic of soil types. Unlike the signature limestone found in Chablis, here, layers of decomposed granite, sand, and gneiss are generously scattered with fossilized seashells. When farmed well (Combe farms organically!) in a warm and fresh vintage like 2019, wines with a striking sense of minerality and texture emerge. That’s when we pounce.

Domaine de la Combe is located in the village of Saint-Fiacre, nestled between the appellation’s namesake Sèvre and Maine rivers. As the estate’s name implies, the domaine is located within a combe (valley), encompassed by sprawling vineyards planted into the surrounding hillsides. All farming is done organically. In the cellar, fermentation is completed with wild yeasts from the vineyard and no malolactic takes place. Sur-lie aging is done for eight months with regular bâtonnage implemented, and minimal sulfites are added during the winemaking process. Make no mistake: This is affordable, low-intervention wine in one of its finest, most refreshing forms!

On the nose, the wine jumps with aromas of salty lemon, underripe green peach, and salt-kissed rocks. The palate exudes unexpected texture and weight that promises to satisfy a variety of medium-bodied white wine drinkers. Flavors of yellow apple core, peach skin, lemon bosom, and oyster shell lead to a delicious and refreshing finish. In short, the wine has everything that I love most about entry-level bottles from Chablis (with a much more attractive price tag). I’d pull this one right out of the fridge and serve it nicely chilled in an all-purpose stem around 45 degrees. 
 
In the realm of food and wine pairing, Muscadet screams for something equally salty and refreshing—think fresh seafood towers, cold shrimp, briny oysters, and more. When serving, I’d sub the cocktail sauce for a squeeze of fresh lemon or mignonette sauce instead so as to let the wine shine. Or, simply sip on its own for an elevated, instant transport to a Parisian bistro setting. Cheers!