Off the top of my head, I can think of four legendary Barolo producers who not only make a delicious white from Arneis but may sell more Arneis than Barolo: Bruno Giacosa, Ceretto, Vietti, and today’s featured producer, Brovia. I’d also be willing to bet that these Arneis wines were the first introduction many people got to these iconic wineries. But even if not, I look at a bottle of Brovia Arneis and, given what I know about their reds, I have an expectation of excellence.
Not surprisingly, they deliver, and in so doing they remind us of the treasure to be found in Roero, the appellation on the opposite side of the Tànaro River. And while Brovia is recognized as one of the Arneis elite, their production is relatively small, totaling about 4,500 bottles a year from a .8-hectare vineyard in the village of Vezza d’Alba. Yes, they farm this old-vine site, and vinify the resultant wine, with as much care and classicism as their Barolos. It’s clear for anyone to see, and if you’re inclined to skip past it en route to yet another bottle of Chardonnay or Sauvignon Blanc, you’re really missing out. The wine hints at a number of more-familiar varieties, including Sauvignon, Chenin, and Grüner Veltliner, but ultimately, of course, the appeal is that it’s very much its own thing. Crisp, brightly aromatic, and luxuriously textured (despite being unoaked), this is Italian white wine with an extra gear.
As I’ve no doubt said before, the Roero growing zone is one of the most tragically overlooked appellations in northern Italy. The region is just north of Barolo, with a similarly hilly landscape and soil composition, although the Roero soils are sandier overall. Roero’s reds from Nebbiolo are legitimate rivals to those of Barolo/Barbaresco, and in the past, Arneis was mostly valued for attracting birds that might otherwise have eaten the Nebbiolo. Arneis is one of the rare wine grapes that is also a pleasing table grape, producing lots of sweet juice, but that feature is also a bug if it’s not handled correctly. As author Ian d’Agata notes in his indispensable “Native Wine Grapes of Italy,” Arneis needs to be picked at exactly the right moment or its acidity drops dramatically. It’s an aromatic variety, so when the acidity isn’t there it can feel flabby and sweet.
That said, flabby and sweet is about the furthest thing from my mind when tasting Brovia’s racy, mineral 2020. I’m hardly surprised, given the estate’s reputation as one of Barolo’s elite producers: Brovia has continuously produced wine for more than 150 years, primarily from a small collection of top Barolo vineyard sites, all of them organically farmed and most located in the village of Castiglione Falletto. This is the sole white wine in the Brovia lineup, and its source vineyard in Roero, planted in 1980, is rooted in the classic sandy soils of the region.
This 2020 was fermented in stainless steel, with a portion of the must left in contact with the skins for a few days, after which it aged on its lees (spent yeast cells) in tank and then in bottle for several months before its initial release. In the glass, it’s a pale straw-gold moving to a silvery rim, with bright aromas of white peach, chamomile, green pear, wildflower honey, and chopped raw hazelnuts. Medium-bodied and full of freshness and nerve, it’s a perfect white to drink now and over the next few years with sushi and crudo, first-course salads, or charcuterie. Simply pull the cork about 15 minutes before serving in all-purpose stems and pair it with a ceviche loaded with aromatic herbs and lime juice. They’ll make beautiful music together. Enjoy!
