Each new release of Ronchi Barbaresco is a test of my creative writing skills, as I struggle to find a new way to say the same thing I said before. But I’m burnt out, so let’s just cut to the chase: This is a category-best Barbaresco value. I’d count only the legendary Produttori del Barbaresco as a peer in the quality-for-price department, and again, where else on earth will you find a cellar-worthy wine of this pedigree at this price?

I’m going to dive into the details of today's 2017, because that’s what we do, but is that really necessary at this point? Few red wines, Italian or otherwise, fulfill the SommSelect mission quite like Ronchi’s Barbaresco: It’s a long-established family property in one of the world’s most prestigious wine zones, producing soulful, sustainably farmed reds that feel like relics of a bygone era. And yet, despite the quality and consistency of its wines, Ronchi has kept its prices well below what a heritage property of this level could (and should) command. There’s nothing else I can think to say, other than this: If you love Piedmontese Nebbiolo, you’d be crazy to pass this one by.

And yes, for those just joining us, some background: The Ronchi property is based in the village of Barbaresco proper, with the family house perched atop the ‘cru’ vineyard of the same name (for the Italian wine geeks out there, the Ronchi vineyard is bordered by “Montestefano” to the north and “Moccagatta” to the south). This amphitheater-shaped vineyard, in which the vines average 30-40 years of age, has a southeastern aspect and runs up to the border with the village of Neive to the east. The Rocca family has been in this spot for four generations, and today winemaker Giancarlo Rocca presides over about 7 hectares (16 acres). Working without any pesticides or herbicides, Rocca is also a traditionalist in the cellar, aging his wines only in the large, Slavonian oak vats known as botti and bottling his wines unfined and unfiltered. 

In the glass, Ronchi’s 2017 is a deep, luminous garnet-red with crimson and pink reflections, with textbook Barbaresco aromas of black cherry, red currant, rose petal, licorice, sandalwood, leather, and underbrush. It is medium-plus in body, with ripe but firm tannins that frame the fruit and lend that inimitable Barbaresco/Barolo backbone. In terms of the vintage, ’17 isn’t as rounded and generous right out of the gate as the two that preceded it, so give it at least an hour in a decanter to unwind if you’re enjoying a bottle now. Serve it at 60-65 degrees in Burgundy stems with something with a little fat and smoke to it (the attached recipe should do the trick) and, while it isn’t likely, an unfinished bottle will be even better on day two. Be sure to hang onto some stock for enjoyment 10-15 years down the line as well. It will get there, which, at this price, is no small achievement. Enjoy!