Savennières is one of those ‘Holy Grail’ wines that attracts sommeliers like moths to a flame. First off, it’s quite rare to see. Found in the Anjou region of the Loire, the entire AOC is 285 hectares (roughly 150 under vine), entirely dedicated to Chenin Blanc. Second, very few producers have mastered the art of these deeply mineral, thought-provoking whites. This single-vineyard bottling comes from one of the Loire’s most celebrated Chenin specialists, and it delivers on every level.

The Papin family’s run at Château Pierre-Bise started in 1959, when Pierre Papin acquired the estate, and has continued through three successive generations: Pierre’s son Claude came aboard in 1974, and later his sons Christophe (1997) and René (2001). The family is perhaps most celebrated for its botrytis-affected Côteaux du Layon wines from Chenin Blanc, but their vineyard holdings have expanded to 50+ hectares over the years and include some key acquisitions in nearby Saviennières and elsewhere. 

Like Riesling, Chenin Blanc has the seemingly magical ability to be weighty and weightless at the same time. Aromas of pear, apple, quince, white flowers, cut hay, honeycomb, fresh cream, and wet stones are all confirmed on the viscous, full-bodied palate. It coats the palate, then makes your mouth water, then lingers for a while in your memory before calling you back for another sip. The richness of the texture, the depth of the minerality, and the raciness of the acidity are all extraordinary. How is this possible?