Let’s get right to it tonight: We have a literal handful of Jean-Marc’s 2014 “Partition” to share and once that’s gone, best of luck finding it, or any vintage for that matter, anywhere else. This is Sélèque’s most prestigious and Iimited bottling, and it’s lucky number seven in liquid form: This 2014 marks the seventh release, and it’s the product of seven discrete terroirs vinified in seven separate barrels. 

That’s the equivalent of 150 cases, a minuscule drop in the ocean when comparing it with the productions of culty tête de cuvées like Cristal, Dom Perignon, and Sir Winston Churchill. To be clear, these are certainly worth splurging for and savoring, but their exposure is ubiquitous if not diluted, whereas “Partition” is an elusive white whale that’s practically invisible on the retail/restaurant circuit. In fact, this was the first time one of these bottles had ever been placed in front of me. And I’m so glad it was: Coming from seven hand-farmed parcels and led by Chardonnay with Pinots Noir/Meunier, this barrel-fermented, seven-year-old stunner is a colossal spectacle to behold. It’s intensely mineral and exploding with fine chalk- and citrus-carved layers that crash over the palate with spectacular energy and finesse. I still can’t believe I was allowed to taste a bottle, let alone offer an amount that can be carried in my hands, so take what you can and celebrate each one!

Whether it’s John Gilman calling Jean-Marc Sélèque “one of the brightest young stars in Champagne,” Antonio Galloni being blown away by the skyrocketing quality at this tiny grower estate, or Peter Liem profusely complimenting the impressive “role of terroir in [his] top-quality Champagne blends,” there’s no denying that Jean-Marc is a force to be reckoned with. And, when it comes to his home base Pierry, in the Champagne subzone of Coteaux Sud d’Épernay, one could argue he’s the greatest. Upon taking over from his father Richard in 2008, Jean-Marc was bestowed with nine hectares of vines divided between seven villages and 45 unique parcels. This sheer amount of vine diversity alone requires a great deal of windshield time and fastidious attention to detail, and yet Jean-Marc takes it two steps further by farming organically and biodynamically. 

Seven of those distinct parcels (listed on the back label) form tonight’s 2014 “Partition.” Each parcel is farmed naturally and harvested manually. At Jean-Marc’s cellar in Pierry, the grapes are gently pressed and each parcel ferments separately in its own French oak barrel. Following, the seven individual wines/barrels are blended together and transferred into bottle without fining or filtering. After five years of maturation under a natural cork—to introduce micro amounts of oxygen—this wine was disgorged in early 2020 and given a two-gram dosage. 

A note from Sélèque’s importer about the musical notes on the front label: “Music is central in the Sélèque family; Jean-Marc grew up playing guitar while his father continues to play piano. With each vintage, the score on the label changes to a different song to reflect something that happened that year.” The 2012 has Jimi Hendrix's “Changes”; the 2013 has Dusty Springfield's “Son of a Preacher Man”; and the current 2014 is The Animals' “House of the Rising Sun.”

With just a few swirls, tonight’s 2014 “Partition” unfurls in the glass beautifully, pushing out soft, exquisite aromas of green and red apple skin, white peach, lemon zest, fresh white flowers, Anjou pear, crushed almonds, honeysuckle, pastry, lees, and finely crushed stones. This is dry, taut, and elegantly layered Champagne crafted impeccably. It fills the mouth quickly with laser-sharp precision and broad-sweeping textures of citrus and chalk alongside supercharged savory notes. Although my bottle did not survive day two, I strongly suggest you try and save a glass because it carries so much energy and tension that promises to reward the patient drinker. Enjoy one now in all-purpose stems around 50 degrees and save your others for consumption between 2022-2029. Cheers!