I get a visceral reaction when encountering a significant, well-aged red Burgundy in superb condition, and today’s 14-year-old Premier Cru left a profound and lasting impression on me. This, of course, did not come as a surprise.
When historic Domaine de Courcel initially released their 2007s over a decade ago, epicurean publisher Gault-Millau noted they were “marked by freshness and tension...these are wines to keep.” The famed Revue des Vins de France followed soon after by giving Courcel a prestigious three-star rating and exclaiming they were releasing “the most exciting Pommards of our time.” But perhaps the biggest endorsement came when renowned French critics Bettane & Desseauve proclaimed Courcel’s wines have reached a “majestic dimension” and that they were “the Côte de Beaune equivalent of Domaine de la Romanée Conti.” That’s right: Courcel has been compared to legendary DRC, and today’s “Clos des Grands Épenots” (a walled-off monopole within 1er Cru “Les Grands Épenots”) is their most beloved and sought-after flagship bottling. At 14 years of age, this deeply mineral, muscular, and smoky Pinot Noir has entered the elusive “sweet spot” of mature blue-chip Burgundy. We can offer up to six bottles per person until inventory hits zero.
For years now, Les Grands Épenots has been evaluated for Grand Cru promotion by the INAO (France’s authority for wine designations) and many Burgundy producers will tell you it’s only a matter of time until it happens. This prized site produces some of the greatest Pinot Noir in all of Côte de Beaune, especially in the hands of Domaine de Courcel. They are among Burgundy’s most historic and time-honored properties, having been owned by the same family tree since the 1600s! Today, it’s Anne Bommelaer and Marie de Courcel at the helm. They farm their holdings (just 10 hectares) organically and raise all their wines with extreme patience and attention to detail. Aside from a couple of regional bottlings, their focus lies on four Pommard Premier Crus, with today’s “Clos des Grands Epenots” garnering the most attention.
The entirety of “Clos des Grands Épenots” (4.89 hectares) is owned by the de Courcel family and is located in the northern reaches of the larger Premier Cru “Les Grands Épenots.” Their vines average 60 years of age and are buried in Burgundy’s classic clay-limestone soils. All farming is carried out with organic principles, harvesting is entirely by hand, and yields are greatly reduced to ensure only the finest, ripest clusters make it into the cellar. With the guidance of consulting enologist Yves Confuron (of Confuron-Cotetidot), the grapes are briefly cold-soaked before fermenting in stainless steel vats. Following, the resulting wine is transferred into French barrels, 33% new, for a staggering 23 months! Bottling occurs without fining or filtration.
De Courcel’s 2007 “Clos des Grands Epenots” reveals a dusty ruby core moving to light reddish-orange reflections on the rim. After 30 minutes of air, the nose effuses preserved wild strawberry, red cherries, black tea, goji berry, blood orange peel, licorice, horse saddle, smoke, damp rose petals, wet clay, clove, vanilla bean, evergreens, and wet stone. The palate is muscular and firm yet rich and velvet-like in texture with tannins that have seamlessly integrated over the past 14 years. Flavors are driven by complex black-red fruits with layers of dried flowers, vintage leather, game, and finely crushed minerals. It’s a Premier Cru beauty, full of profound earthy savor that melds into a wild and spicy finish. This wine has entered the early years of its peak and should last another decade if kept well. Pairing possibilities are limitless, but with a wine of this clarity and purity keep the dish simple so the wine will shine. This ’07 makes me want to go to Zuni Café in San Francisco and order their famous roast chicken—the attached recipe is a step-by-step guide to one of the most succulent preparations around. Enjoy!
