Many of my all-time favorite summer whites (Muscadet; Chablis; Santorini Assyrtiko) have a sneaky way of packing in so much saline minerality and freshness that it’s easy to overlook how beautifully textured and complex they actually are—but it’s impossible to miss “Doravante.” Not only did this quench my thirst with the best of them, it single-handedly inspired me to add it to my warm-weather rotation.
This deeply mineral white blend comes from V Puro, the passion project of two forward-thinking vintners who tapped into the incredible potential of Bairrada’s windswept coastal vineyards, limestone-rich clay soils, and fascinating indigenous varieties. Young-vine Arinto is blended with ancient Bical and Cercial vines that reach up to 120 years of age, creating a succulent, citrus-drenched wine with razor-sharp acidity and sea-spray tang. Over my career, I’ve learned the best Bairrada brancos can be categorically Burgundian with a scintillating maritime twist, and Doravante’s breathtaking 2018 is unquestionably among the best out there. And yet, there are so few to be had: Fewer than 300 cases were produced for the entire globe!
It’s rare for small growers to own land in Bairrada, so the V Puro vineyard was a major score for Nuno Mira do Ó and João Soares. The duo shared a desire to revitalize the region, as it had never quite recovered after an 18th-century scandal related to Port production. Mira do Ó was already crafting acclaimed wines in Dão and Bucelas when he decided to team up with Alentejo-based Soares in 2009. Once they found a source of ancient vines in the Cadoiços Valley, V Puro hit the ground running. Portuguese for “pure,” the name “Puro” nicely sums up their goal: to highlight Bairrada’s rich heritage and terroir.
Bairrada isn’t exactly the easiest place to grow most grapes, but Mira do Ó and Soares quickly realized that the region’s naturally acidic native white grapes would thrive there, like the 80-120-year-old Bical and Cercial vines they scored. Less than 20 miles from the coast, these sites are a straight shot to the Atlantic, with zero natural barriers to block the cool, damp ocean breezes from working their moderating magic. What’s more, the clay-limestone soils (“Bairrada '' is from the Portuguese for “clay”) contribute a smoky character to all of the wines. While the winemaking is minimalist across the board, the V Puro prizes the individuality of each grape and each microclimate, so every parcel is treated separately and distinctly in the cellar.
After spontaneous alcoholic and malolactic fermentations, “Doravante” spent 12 months on its lees—the Arinto in stainless steel vats, the Bical and Cercial in neutral French barrels. The 2018 vintage was a wild one for Bairrada with a late summer heat spike, but because all three varieties are absurdly good at retaining freshness/acidity that just means gorgeous mid-palate weight and texture to complement its laser-sharp tension; it’s simultaneously creamy and weightless. A tangy mineral streak of gunpowder and smoked sea salt pulses through the wine, with a juicy burst of freshly squeezed lemon and lime. Arinto, which makes up 80 percent of the blend, supplies much of the wine’s vibrant raciness and citrus zest aromatics, while the centenarian Bical and Cercial offers fleshy, aromatic stone fruit and crushed stone austerity. Because less than 300 cases were made, we suggest stocking up for all of your seafood-related needs before it’s gone—this refreshing white just begs to be guzzled with simple summer fare like grilled cod, octopus, red snapper, or clams (or a more traditional pairing: Cataplana de Peixe). Go ahead, squeeze on as much fresh lemon juice as you want—Doravante can handle it. It may be tempting to serve this mouthwatering wine ice cold but I promise you’ll coax out more nuanced complexities around 50 degrees in all-purpose stems. Oh, and be sure to grab a few bottles for the cellar: Bairrada whites can age!
