The extraordinary quality and complexity of today’s legendary Grand Cru value should come as a surprise to nobody: Domaine Schoech is a known destination for dry, world-class Riesling, and the immortalized “Kaefferkopf” vineyard holds seven centuries of winemaking history. This unbeatable combination is why I’ve repeatedly called Alsace one of the most thrilling and dominant wine regions on earth.
The region holds deep sentimental importance to me because it’s loaded with (1) some of France’s most significant wines, (2) the world’s only Grand Cru Riesling, and (3) absurd, unrivaled values in the glass. And for anyone who thinks it may lack the pedigree of Burgundy or Bordeaux, I challenge you to think again: The Schoech family has spent 370 years mastering their craft, and today’s even-longer-running terroir has been planted to Riesling since the 1300s. Meaning, this 2018, although young by vintage standards, is entirely fueled by ancient star power. So, if you live for the complete body-and-mind stimulation of top Chablis and culty German/Austrian whites, this rich, bone-dry, and exotically layered Grand Cru Riesling has your name written all over it, for just $55. As always, it’s minimally produced and strictly parceled out.
Do you ever wonder why so many sommeliers call Riesling their favorite grape? It’s one of the most age-worthy varieties on the planet and a chameleon capable of expressing even the most subtle distinctions of various soil types. Those who question the concept of terroir need only compare a glass of slate-grown Riesling to that of a neighboring limestone parcel—they will encounter two dramatically different wines. Terroir is a real thing and few grapes illustrate the concept as definitively as Riesling. Moreover, there’s no more versatile wine with food, period.
Today’s bottle hails from one of Alsace’s gems, the ancient Grand Cru “Kaefferkopf.” This vineyard clings to a steep, verdant hillside in the Vosges mountains, and Schoech’s two organic parcels—one granite and one limestone—hover around 1000 feet in elevation. The most interesting thing about this vineyard isn’t soil or farming, though—it’s temperature! Whenever I’m in Alsace, I marvel at the region’s seemingly ever-present sun and warmth, even when it’s cold and rainy in nearby Champagne and Burgundy. That’s because Alsace’s Vosges mountains create what locals refer to as a föhn, or rain shadow breeze. As severe storms make their way through the Vosges, they gradually offload precipitation and cool air on west-facing slopes. By the time the weather system arrives at Grand Cru “Kaefferkopf,” often all that’s left is a warm, dry breeze, or föhn. This warmth is one of the many reasons why today’s wine offers such disarmingly vivid yellow apple fruit and seductive texture. It’s a special site with a truly unique microclimate.
Every low-yielding cluster is hand-harvested, fermented on ambient yeasts, and aged in both stainless steel vessels for one year. There is no chaptalization, no forced malolactic fermentation, and no fining—just clean, precise winemaking that showcases the immense mineral power, ripeness, and vigor of Grand Cru Kafferkopf. And, to avoid any premature drinking, the Shoechs hold onto their wines for two additional years after bottling! On average, only 500 cases are produced annually.
Schoech’s 2018 “Kaefferkopf” Grand Cru Riesling reveals a deep yellow-gold in the glass and luxuriant concentration. Within moments, lush and exotic flavors of ultra-ripe apricot, peach, and green mango peel come roaring out followed by a calculated second wave of crushed stone, salt-preserved lemon, candied white flowers, ginger, honeysuckle, petrol, and hints of spice. The medium-plus bodied palate is seamlessly and deeply textured, providing a Grand Cru experience like no other. This is a world away from Austrian and/or German Riesling: There is no jolting acidity, no heavy petrol, no overtly lean structure—it’s opulent and deliciously layered all the way. I guarantee you’ll be in a hedonist’s heaven. Decant 30 minutes, serve around 50-55 degrees in all-purpose stems, and enjoy over 1-2 evenings. Cheers to enjoying one of the greatest $50-something Grand Crus out there!
