Today’s extraordinary Pommard is among the most evocative, terroir-expressive Côte de Beaune reds I’ve enjoyed in recent memory. Every atom overflows with the deep fruit, powerful structure, and inimitable iron-rich character that makes Pommard one of the most important Pinot Noir villages/terroirs in the world. Best of all, further evolution in your cellar is guaranteed to yield exponentially savory drinking be it next year or 2035—this is only made possible by a perfect trinity of producer, vintage, and raw material.

Firstly, this is crafted by insider favorite Génot-Boulanger, one of Burgundy’s most extensive parcel-specific estates, with 92 distinct sites averaging less than 0.3 hectares in size. Secondly, in a vintage that highlighted terroir over fruit, “Les Cras” shined brightest because this prized lieu-dit is the rockiest and most mineral-driven of their outstanding Pommard holdings. And thirdly, Génot-Boulanger’s precious vines are worked in strict accordance with organic and biodynamic principles, ensuring that this is Pinot Noir in its purest form. What’s revealed in the glass is profound aromatic detail and perfect harmony throughout every inch of the palate. Whether you’re a die-hard collector, a drink-now enthusiast, or both, you simply cannot miss this undeniably top-tier and classy Pommard. Very limited quantities exist. 

Although Domaine Génot-Boulanger was only founded in 1974 by a Parisian pharmacist-turned-winemaker, the history of its cellar stretches back to the early Cistercian monks: The domaine is located in the Château de Citeaux’s former stables, which lies above some of the oldest working cellars in Burgundy. Today, fourth-generation vignerons Aude and Guillaume Lavollée produce terroir-driven wines from over 22 hectares of choice parcels that are peppered along the famed Côte d’Or. Known for wines that capture the unique voice of each appellation and site, Domaine Génot-Boulanger consistently delivers classic examples with powerful expressions of terroir. The entire estate converted to organic viticulture in 2008 and has been experimenting with biodynamics ever since. This has brought even greater purity and life force to their stunning lineup of wines. 

Their Pommard “Les Cras” comes from a respected lieu-dit at the bottom of the slope, walking distance from the village, and is known for its immensely rocky soil. Their little sliver of fruit here is farmed naturally and harvested by hand. The fruit is entirely de-stemmed, pneumatic pressed, and racked via gravity. Fermentation occurs with only natural yeast in stainless steel tanks. Over 12 months, nature takes its course in French barrels, just 20% new, which retains the wine’s pure aromatics. From here, it is transferred back into stainless steel vats for another six months before bottling without fining or filtration. 

Give this 2017 “Les Cras” time in a decanter and you’ll be handsomely rewarded. Immediately upon pulling the cork, you’re met with a taut, mineral-dense Pinot Noir that emphasizes just how powerful and “hard” young Pommard can be. But after two hours in a decanter, it sheds the rugged edges and effuses gorgeous aromatics of wild strawberry, cherry blossoms, redcurrant, dried raspberry, goji berry, damp fern, crushed stone, iron, moss, and nuanced baking spices. On the medium-plus bodied palate, broad-shouldered, just-ripe berry fruit further accentuates intense savory components that finish in concert with atomized minerals. It’s a spectacular Pommard, loaded with a profound mineral footprint and the structure to carry it well into the next decade. By 2025, secondary flavors will begin creeping towards the spotlight, and by 2030 and beyond, they’ll be dancing center stage. Cheers!