Certain iconic producers are so influential that they tend to factor into any conversation about the region(s) they represent. Château Rayas, of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, is one such producer. So it’s noteworthy that, aside from price, today’s wine has an especially strong connection to Rayas.
For one thing, La Bastide Saint Dominique crafts its “Secrets de Pignan” from 100% Grenache, despite the fact that there are, famously, 13 grape varieties authorized for use in the appellation. Then there’s “Pignan,” part of the region’s vast network of lieu-dit (named-place) vineyards, a site which also, famously, fuels a Rayas wine. What today’s wine confirms, unequivocally, is that the Grenache grape reaches its apex of finesse and aromatic range in the sandy soils of the southern Rhône—which leads me to wonder why more producers aren’t featuring it in “varietal” form, as La Bastide Saint Dominique and Rayas do. Here, in this hot, arid, climate, they’ve found a way to give their native reds the kind of energy and lift found in reds grown much further north in Burgundy. Every time I encounter a Châteauneuf of this quality, especially at this price, I rejoice, because there’s a lot of inky, sappy, overblown wine from this historic appellation that I just don’t want to drink. This is not merely a delicious wine but, in many ways, a benchmark—a welcome reminder that old vines, and a ‘right grape in the right place’ mentality, can work wonders, even on a warming planet. Bottom line? Sand-grown Grenache is where it’s at, so don’t miss out on this affordable chance to experience a great one!
Châteauneuf-du-Pape is France’s oldest delimited wine appellation, and its vineyards, planted in a patchwork of soil types, have been carefully mapped out for centuries. Unlike Burgundy, however, the assorted lieux-dits of Châteauneuf have names but not rankings (Premier/Grand Cru). Fans of these wines are accustomed to seeing some of these vineyards cited on labels (“La Crau,” “Le Pied du Baud”), and, thanks to Rayas, “Pignan” may be the most prestigious designation of them all. The old-vine Pignan parcels farmed by La Bastide Saint Dominique are rooted in sandy soils over red clay subsoils, which time has shown to be the preferred terroir of the Grenache grape—a variety which, as enthusiasts know, can be a bit of a shape-shifter. In one instance, it may display a darker fruit profile, with notes of black licorice, while in another—with today’s wine a shining example—it displays a more red-fruited, floral, lifted character, with subtle notes of warm spices and wild herbs. While I’ve been known to celebrate the region’s blended styles with equal gusto, it’s impossible not to gravitate to the pure-Grenache versions on the rare occasions they turn up!
La Bastide Saint Dominique, built around a 16th-century chapel, was created by Marie-Claude and Gérard Bonnet and has grown to encompass 50 hectares of vineyards, not just in Châteauneuf-du-Pape but several other southern Rhône appellations. They achieved organic certification for their vineyards in 2011, and count among their holdings a jewel-box three-acre parcel of 100-year-old vines in the Pignan lieu-dit. In a challenging (i.e. hot) vintage like 2017, these old vines proved especially valuable, allowing for slower, more even maturation of the fruit.
The result is a wine that honors its terroir and showcases the purity of fruit attainable from this site. Grapes are manually harvested and sorted in the vineyard and then again in the winery. After complete destemming, the wine was naturally fermented in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks and aged for 20 months in concrete vats before bottling. That absence of any oak influence (concrete is the preferred aging vessel among many of Châteauneuf’s greatest old-school houses) is yet another reason to love this wine—and we do love it!
In the glass, the wine displays a deep ruby/garnet core moving to pink/magenta at the rim. Enticing aromas of sweet spice and pure kirsch, black raspberry liqueur, and red plum lure you into a vibrant, yet smooth entry on the palate. The tannins are ripe and well-integrated, and the silky cherry notes on the mid-palate transition seamlessly to a surprisingly long finish complete with spices, wild herbs, fresh leather, and hints of baked clay. This luxurious Grenache is enjoyable now, but worth waiting for (drink now through 2027). Enjoy it in your favorite Burgundy stems and pair with a traditional European roasted pigeon recipe (don’t worry—you can substitute goose, quail, duck, or chicken instead for the same delicious pairing). Don’t think Châteauneuf can have finesse? Think again!
