In 2013, there was a rather dramatic change that occurred within the Jamet family. After decades of working side-by-side in the family winery, which sits perched at the top of the Côte-Rôtie hill above the anchor village of Ampuis, Jean-Luc and Jean-Paul Jamet decided to go their separate ways—without actually going anywhere: The brothers created two wineries separated by a well-placed concrete wall and split up the vineyards. Having meticulously assembled an enviable, and some would say unrivaled, assortment of vineyards throughout Côte-Rôtie, the Jamets have become the ultimate name in collectible, age-worthy, top-of-the-line reds. Luckily for us, Jean-Luc’s third vintage under his own label is a certifiable instant classic at a much, much friendlier price, due in part to Jean-Paul getting the more recognizable label during the split.

The impeccable lineage and earth-rattling profundity of Jean-Luc’s 2015 “Terrasses” is evident from the first sip. When French Syrah is “on” like this, it’s awfully hard for any combination of wine/region/producer to beat its combination of ethereal aromatics and earthy depth. In the glass, the wine reveals a dense, dark purple/black that moves to a vibrant ruby at the rim. After a minimum two-hour decant, a massive outpouring of hearty blue and black fruits emerge in the form of boysenberry, huckleberry, Damson plum, black cherry, cassis, and black raspberry alongside a formidable array of spice and savory earth. That cacophony of savor and spice—roasted meat, iron, violets, black pepper, olive tapenade, leather, exotic spices—carries through to the full-bodied and sublimely structured palate.