One of my most memorable “blind calls” was at world-famous Tour d’Argent in Paris, when the Head Sommelier brought out a brooding, dusty-hued red that was ripping with dried currant, cured meat, herbs, ash, and vintage leather. I called 1989 Pradeaux Bandol. It was 1988 Tempier Bandol, just five miles down the road from Pradeaux. And although today’s Mourvèdre-dominant showstopper will require decades of aging before reaching that ultra-savory pinnacle, my wine “engine” couldn’t stop from revving when I dipped my nose into the glass.
Immediately, I was teleported to that picture-postcard Provençal region: the mountainous backdrop forming a natural amphitheater; the quaint hilltop villages; the glistening Mediterranean Sea. A gorgeous bouquet of ripe berries, wild game, and garrigue roared out, followed by an intense palate of allspice, fennel, and dark brambly fruit. Although just the seventh vintage from “young gun” Domaine Gueissard, I was immediately measuring it against beloved traditionalists and icons like Châteaux Pradeaux, Tempier, and Pibarnon—and was expecting it to easily cruise into their loftier neighborhood of pricing, too. So, at $32, today’s first offering from emergent Domaine Gueissard impressively flips the script and over-delivers with a full-throttle, finely layered, deeply nuanced powerhouse. If you’ve never been touched by the Bandol Rouge spell, consider this your be-all and end-all primer!
Speaking of style and technique, there are only a few world-class wine appellations that have transformed so dramatically over the decades as Bandol. It once held its place at the pinnacle of deep, dark, and complex red wine, standing shoulder to shoulder with the greatest of Barolo and Bordeaux. To witness the true power and glory of these wines, many patient years in barrel, bottle, and cellar were required. Bandol’s traditional blend was overwhelmingly dominated by the tannic and unappeasable Mourvèdre grape, entirely fermented with whole-grape clusters, then aged for years in enormous, old oak vats and long-held in bottle before going to market. No one would dare crack a newly released Bandol red. Today, the majority of red wine produced in Bandol contains the appellation minimum of 50% Mourvèdre, often blended with intentionally ripe components of Grenache and Syrah. Partial whole-cluster fermentation has been almost completely abandoned for 100% de-stemming and aging in sweetly-accented barriques has become an acceptable practice. In a nutshell, Bandol’s true terroir has slowly been “fading.”
Bandol native Clement Minné had no interest going down that road. After interning at the famed Domaine Tempier for two years and then working as assistant winemaker for another three, he and his wife/partner, Pauline Giraud, formed Domaine Gueissard in 2011. Armed with ambition, perseverance, and a bootstrapping spirit, they initially set up shop in their rented shed/winery in the industrial outskirts of Sanary-sur-Mer. Since then, the couple has created a bonafide domaine with six hectares, while fully managing 12 more with négociant parcels supplementing their entry-level lineup of regional wines. Recently, they bought out their silent partners, and acquired a new winery in Le Beausset in the heart of Bandol.
Their impressive patchwork of parcels distributed between the communes of La Cadière d'Azur, Castellet, Saint-Cyr sur Mer, and Beausset, all based in typical clay/limestone soils, enables a selection of micro-terroirs bringing originality and complexity to the wines. All plots are farmed sustainably as they move toward the goal of organic certification for the estate-owned vineyards. Today’s 2017 Gueissard Bandol Rouge is composed of 70% Mourvèdre, 15% Cinsault and 15% Grenache (much like Tempier). All the grapes were hand-harvested into traditional small crates and meticulously hand-sorted for optimal quality before being fully de-stemmed. A vigilant, gentle maceration for only the Grenache and Cinsault captures texture and flavor. For all parcels, an approximate 30-day fermentation at controlled and monitored temperatures occurs naturally with indigenous yeasts. The wine is aged in very large, 3,500-liter foudres and 600-liter demi-muids for 18 months prior to bottling with minimal filtration.
Apparently, Team Minné-Giraud has a reputation streaked with mischief and humor, obviously underpinned with serious talent and skill, evidenced by this arresting 2017 Bandol Rouge. Cloaked in an opaque purple-red hue, we suggest you afford their remarkable effort a solid 60 minutes in a decanter before diving into a dense bouquet of blackcurrant, rich chocolate, garrigue-laced cassis, sweet tobacco, grilled meat, and an echo of savory brandy. Hovering still, you’ll get whispers of violets, anise, leather, and baking spice. The full-bodied palate holds a pulsating core of minerality, warm earth, and plush red/blue fruit, riding on well-integrated, buffed tannins with a structured backbone of acidity. Exhibiting high-grade focus and structure, the wine finishes powerfully long with pure Bandol satisfaction. Domaine Gueissard shows a clear understanding of Bandol’s tradition in this showcase effort of their beloved Mourvèdre plantings. It positions itself, without question, as a compelling counterpoint to my cherished “old guard” producers while delivering unquestioned provenance at this highly attractive price point. Don’t think twice about a multiple-bottle journey with this one—it’s cellar-worthy for the next 5-15 years, easily. Cheers!
