By now, you know that I possess a famously unquenchable thirst for the spicy, idiosyncratic, and thoroughly irresistible grape that is Grüner Veltliner. That is, until I encountered a spectacular large-format bottle of pure refreshment from Austria’s wildly undervalued Weinviertel region—an entire liter of crystalline, organically grown Grüner. My thirst? Quenched. My tastebuds? Celebrating. My wallet? Only $22 lighter. If this sounds like a suspiciously good deal for one of the most refreshing and charming wines on the planet, then let me allay your doubts.
Felix was founded to exceed expectations, a thoughtful composition of Grüner Veltliner that’s sourced from some of the region’s most meticulous, eco-conscious farmers. This is the label’s very first vintage, and it’s only through the generosity of one of our boutique Austrian importers that we’ve been granted first access. I’ve spent a career combing the world for monumental deals like today’s: big bottle, small production, microscopic price tag. Enjoy!
If you share my love of the Grüner Veltliner grape, you'll love today's organic beauty. Felix is the brainchild of a small boutique American importer, an exuberant celebration of Grüner Veltliner designed to capture the spirit of the Weinviertel through a collaboration of growers overseeing organically farmed vineyards.
Considered one of the oldest wine regions in Austria, Weinviertel also covers the most ground. While the Holy Trinity appellations of Kremstal, Kamptal, and the Wachau are situated approximately an hour northwest of Vienna, the Weinviertel covers the vast, wild northeastern expanse of Lower Austria. It stretches from the western border of Slovakia, following the Danube towards the ‘big three’, and veering up to the southern border of the Czech Republic. The vineyards of the Weinviertel are planted on a variety of soils, but this particular liter comes from younger vines predominantly set in fine loess (wind-blown silt). These soils combined with a healthy mosaic of microclimates contribute to a recognizable piquant “peppery” note, the famous “pfefferl” of Weinviertel. This unique quality was preserved in today’s wine by fermenting the hand-picked fruit entirely in stainless steel. It then aged briefly on fine lees before being bottled in liter formats.
The Felix Grüner is a lovely pale straw in the glass, glimmering with hints of chartreuse. It’s ready to pour right from the bottle with a delicate chill and an appropriately ambitious thirst. Cool, pomaceous aromas of fresh cider and crunchy rhubarb mingle with the lovely green notes that give Grüner its signature complexity: daikon radish, snap peas, and even Puy lentils. The palate provides a juicy zip of citrus and starfruit, perfectly supported by lean minerals, green apple tannin, and a bittersweet, slender finish. You couldn’t dream of a better pairing for a mouthful of something spicy, like these rice noodles heaped with crunchy veggies. Don’t be afraid to drizzle some chili oil on there and observe the palliative powers of Grüner at work—it’s the perfect way to soothe a tingling tongue. Each sip brings you a bit closer to heaven! Or at least, to the Weinviertel.
