I said it above, I said it below, and I’m saying it again: If Deovlet’s 2017 “La Encantada” Pinot Noir was produced in Burgundy, its soaring levels of perfume, opulence, and complexity would fetch Premier Cru status and a $150+ price tag. Truthfully, it’s no stretch to compare this to the many iconic labels of Chambolle-Musigny and Morey-Saint-Denis, but at the same time, it’s so distinctly Sta. Rita Hills:

This ‘17 is exploding with high-toned wild strawberry, goji berry, ripe black cherry, blood orange peel, and exotic spices that crescendo into a thunderous, savory/saline finale. I’m willing to go so far as to label it one of the greatest Pinot Noir values coming out of California—do some quick web browsing and you’ll discover luminaries Antonio Galloni’s Vinous and Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate are inclined to agree too. In fact, this 2017 marks Ryan Deovlet’s tenth vintage from the fascinating “La Encantada” vineyard and he deemed it his finest release yet. Unfortunately, only several hundred people in America—and far, far less of you—will get to be the lucky owners because Deovlet only managed to produce seven barrels. What little he emerged with is a thrilling, comprehensive crash course on Certified Organic Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir. Still don’t think Santa Barbara County is crafting some of the finest wines on the planet? This mesmerizing, lavishly textured Pinot will change your tune lightning-quick.

In 1975, Richard Sanford teamed up with Michael Benedict for their first spectacular vintage in Sta. Rita Hills; a domino effect ensued, leading to an appellation designation and a prominent position in winegrowing history. Pioneering prowess aside, the array of distinct soils and microclimates here vividly capture the majesty of Burgundian grapes (Pinot Noir & Chardonnay) in a way few places on earth can rival. Like Burgundy, this special appellation was once underwater and now boasts millions of fossilized diatoms, a type of hard-shelled algae, in its sedimentary rock soils. Combine this striking minerality with the cool Pacific-influenced climate and you have a fascinatingly unique pocket of California bursting with potential. 

Ryan Deovlet built up years of wine interest bouncing around Australia, New Zealand, and Argentina, but discovered his true winemaking abilities under Stephen Dooley of Stephan Ross Wine Cellars and as the assistant winemaker for Red Car Wine Company. His return to California in 2008 prompted the first-ever release under his own label. Today’s 2017 marks Ryan’s tenth vintage, and within that decade, he’s become a certified winemaking rockstar on the Santa Barbara County wine scene. Just ask Vinous’ Antonio Galloni: “Ryan Deovlet is one of the most exciting young winemakers...his wines, which emerge from some of the top sites in Santa Barbara, are impeccable, pure, and wonderfully transparent to site.”

One of those is “La Encantada,” a sprawling Pinot Noir-dominant vineyard seven miles from the Pacific Ocean. It was planted by Richard Sanford in 2000 and became Santa Barbara County’s very first Certified Organic vineyard. Deovlet’s inaugural vintage was from here too, so it holds a special place in his heart. Today’s 2017 was harvested over three seperate passes, and the small amount of fruit was raised traditionally, with little influence, in order to best express this cool-climate, fossil-rich site. The grapes were cold-soaked for five days with a routine pump-over and completely de-stemmed prior to fermentation. Once inoculated, they were lightly tread by foot before a rigorous punch-down regimen. The wine then aged 16 months in 50% new French barrels.

Deovlet’s 2017 “La Encantada” is a luxurious and harmoniously balanced Pinot Noir with superb levels of detail and polish. Although high-toned aromatics immediately flood out of the bottle upon pulling the cork, we urge you to treat this just like you would a young, top-shelf Premier Cru Burgundy: decant for 30-60 minutes, serve in ballooned stems, and savor over many hours. If you decide to ignore the first two suggestions, so be it, but the latter is extremely important. This Pinot expresses incredible nuances with continued oxygen exposure: At first, a concentrated blast of wild strawberry, blood orange peel, Bing cherry, raspberry liqueur, cranberry, plum pie, and goji berry—and then a second, more savory wave of crushed clay, sweet herbs, salted citrus, kola nut, rose petal, Hibiscus tea, and finely integrated baking spices. The palate is extremely soft and broad, pulsing with streams of fresh acidity and faint minerals that enhance its stunningly ripe berry-fruit core. It’s an impeccable, blue-chip Pinot that oozes royalty all the way. Enjoy now and over the next decade-plus. Cheers!