There are various interpretations of “rare” in the wine business, but only one when it comes to a chance encounter with Laurent-Perrier’s “Cuvée Alexandra”: extremely. First unveiled in 1987, this stuff-of-legend Grand Cru Rosé has been released a grand total of seven times. As such, tonight’s spectacularly vinous and deeply evocative 2004 (still their current release) undoubtedly exists in the top tier of luxury rosé, and is a siren song for the few who seek out Champagne’s rarest collectibles. Now equipped with 16 years of maturation, it is not unlike a profound Grand Cru Burgundy—meditative, richly textured, complex, churning with a savory core.
After all, this is Laurent-Perrier we’re talking about: They were early adopters of Rosé Champagne in the 1960s, and their classic, non-vintage saignée bottling has since become the world’s most sought-after rosé—but that’s child’s play when compared to tonight’s legendary prestige cuvée. This ‘04 is dimensions ahead in the sensory department and woefully behind in the availability department. In fact, I’d wager a hefty sum that most, if not all, of you have never experienced a single vintage of “Alexandra.” Tonight’s your rare chance. Complimentary Ground Shipping on two bottles.
[NOTE: If this is your first time seeing our Friday night series, welcome! My name is Mark Osburn, writer and sommelier at SommSelect, and you’re likely familiar with the many champagnes I’ve waxed rhapsodic about over the years. My goal is simple: to offer rare champagne exclusives and/or highly allocated sparkling gems that have to be pried out of an iron grip. These special offers don’t happen every week, but they’ll always be on a Friday night—stay vigilant!]
There’s a reason Laurent-Perrier is the architect of Champagne’s most popular rosé (their entry-level “Cuvée Brut Rosé”) and one of the top five in terms of total annual production: They’re among the first wave of “Champagne Houses,” founded in 1812! For me, it’s especially refreshing to feature a Champagne House on SommSelect. As you know, we’re all about grower-champagnes here, and I don’t envision that changing, but there’s something special about a House’s prestige cuvée. They may be “corporate” in style, but they're undeniably elite—imagine the polish, precision, and luxury you get from an Apple product. What’s more, when you have the freedom and capital to purchase top fruit from anywhere in Champagne, and the ability to hire the best Master Blenders/Chef de Caves in the region, that simultaneously broadens your horizons and reduces your chance of imperfections.
Laurent-Perrier’s Grand Cuvée Rosé “Alexandra” is a shining beacon of this, as it is a flawless, long-aged blend sourced from six different Grand Cru villages: Ambonnay, Bouzy, and Verzenay for the Pinot Noir (80%); Avize, Cramant, and Le Mesnil-sur-Oger for the Chardonnay. In 2004, the high-quality Pinot Noir was macerated in stainless steel (Laurent-Perrier was the first House to use this vessel in the ‘60s!) and co-fermented with Chardonnay. Upon bottling, the wine was allowed to mature in their cellars for a whopping 10 years before release, yet another benefit of corporate ownership. Following disgorgement, the rosé champagne was given a dosage of approximately six grams of sugar. The initial debut for this wine was back in 2015, although L-P has disgorged and released numerous batches over the intervening years to ensure maximum freshness.
Aside from the elegant bottle shape and the satisfying pour delivered from its narrow, elongated neck, your first attraction to tonight’s 2004 “Cuvée Alexandra” Grand Cru rosé will be the color. A pale vermillion core is revealed with brilliant copper-orange hues and after 2-3 minutes in the glass, extraordinarily pure and seductive aromas come wafting out. A 50-55-degree service temperature and a billowing tulip or an all-purpose stem is the sweet spot for the full range of aromatics: dried raspberries, strawberry coulis, Rainier cherry, damp forest floor, redcurrant, rose petal, grapefruit zest, licorice, dried burnt orange peel, chalk, crushed shells, and the beginnings of smoke-tinged tertiaries. I could smell this for minutes. Actually, I did. And yet, the palate is even more enticing, full of lithe mineral accents that are lifted by gorgeously rich, red-fruited textures intertwined with a distinct smoky savoriness. It’s mouth-filling, profound, elegant, delicate, intelligent, supremely complex; absolutely stunning. As is typical with wines of this pedigree and nature, I enjoyed L-P’s 2004 “Alexandra” exponentially more as it shed carbonation throughout the evening and began acting like a fine Grand Cru Burgundy. Of course, to each their own, so track and consume when it’s most optimal to your tastes. This is in the prime of its life, so enjoy one now and appoint your other bottles to be cellar centerpieces over the next 3-5 years. Cheers!
