If you follow wine trends, you’ve likely heard of producers the world over reviving the use of terra cotta clay pots (a.k.a. amphorae) to ferment and/or age wine. It’s trendy, but not in a gimmicky way: there’s a measurable impact on the finished product, especially its texture, leading an ever-growing number of producers to experiment with them.
One of the most high-profile examples is Burgundy négociant Frédéric Magnien, who excitedly describes his amphorae, or jarres, as indispensable in preserving “brightness and clarity” in his Pinot Noirs. Today we get further confirmation from the legendary Barbaresco producer, Ronchi, whose “In Amphoris” Langhe Nebbiolo gives another noble red the clay-pot treatment. Our verdict is the same as the one we gave Magnien: Two enthusiastic thumbs up! In fact, given Nebbiolo’s powerful tannic structure, you might say it’s even better suited to amphorae than Pinot Noir: like wood barrels, clay pots allow for a measured amount of oxygen exchange—that is, they breathe, helping the wine to soften and knit together without imparting any of the flavors (or extra tannins) associated with wood barrels. Today’s 2018 is as close to “velvety” as Nebbiolo is going to get, without sacrificing any of the leathery, earthy personality that makes this variety so special. The purity is impeccable, the texture refined, and then there’s the price—right in the sweet spot for Barbaresco lovers looking to shave a few bucks without skimping on quality. It’s trendy and timelessly cool at the same time!
As many of you already know, Ronchi is one of our all-time favorites in Italy’s Piedmont region—a model of consistency and value in a place where prices continue to climb steadily upward. Winemaker/proprietor Giancarlo Rocca lives with three generations of his family in a farmhouse perched atop the “Ronchi” vineyard, one of the acknowledged “cru” vineyards in the village of Barbaresco. It is bordered by “Montestefano” to the north and “Moccagatta” to the south, running up to the border with the village of Neive to the east—fans of Barbaresco wines know this to be prime real estate, with 30- to 40-year-old vines producing incredibly consistent wines at some of the best prices in the region. Working without any pesticides or herbicides, Rocca is a traditionalist in the cellar, aging his wines in the large, Slavonian oak vats known as botti and bottling his wines unfined and unfiltered.
In this case, however, Rocca took traditionalism a step further and trotted out the amphorae, in which this wine aged for a year before bottling. Winemakers cite a variety of benefits to aging wines in clay pots: they are even more “neutral” than used oak barrels, but allow for similar oxygen exchange and are well-insulated against temperature shifts. As with wines fermented and/or aged in concrete, those refined in clay display a softer texture, at least in part because they aren’t leaching tannins from wood barrels. For a tannic variety like Nebbiolo, especially when the goal is an earlier-drinking wine labeled “Langhe Nebbiolo,” this is clearly a benefit.
As is the case with everything Ronchi makes, the 2018 “In Amphoris” is old-school Nebbiolo through and through. It’s been given a quick pass-over with a sheet of high-grit sandpaper to soften some of the sharper edges, but otherwise there’s no mistaking what’s in the glass. It’s a medium garnet-red moving to pink at the rim, with the potent aromatic cocktail so unique to this variety: wild strawberry, red currant, brandied cherries, rose petals, licorice, black pepper, and underbrush. It is medium-bodied and firm (you’re never going to eliminate the tannins entirely), with lots of freshness driving an aromatic finish. Decant in 30 minutes before serving and enjoy it now and over the next few years in Burgundy stems with whatever Piedmontese classic floats your boat that day: red-wine risotto? Buttery pasta with sautéed wild mushrooms? Braised beef? Something off the grill? This is one versatile tool to have readily at hand, so grab a bunch. Cheers!
