In a state filled with magnificent Cabernet Sauvignons, Januik’s “Stone Cairn” rises to the top like fresh cream. We’re not big score-followers at SommSelect, but it’s worth noting that every wine Andrew Januik has made for his eponymous label has been rated above 90 for 12 years straight. Of course, it helps that he was literally raised in a winery; his father, Mike Januik, is the former winemaker at Chateau Ste. Michelle and Andrew began working weekends in the cellar at age 13 (full time during the summer). Maybe that’s why Andrew’s 100% Cabernet Sauvignon shows such power, precision, and poise.

Of course, there’s also the impeccable raw material: Januik relies on lifelong relationships with growers throughout the Columbia Valley to source small lots of fruit from coveted vineyards. The 2017 “Stone Cairn” comes from three acclaimed vineyards within the Red Mountain AVA: “Obelisco,” “Quintessence,” and “Ciel du Cheval,” all considered among the best vineyards in the appellation. Their rich soils, dependable drainage, and limited rainfall create highly concentrated Cabernet with thick skins, inky color, and serious complexity—sophisticated wine that drinks far, far above its modest price, which would likely be double if it was from California. Andrew came up with the name Stone Cairn while hiking the dense forests surrounding his vineyards. It refers to the rock piles hikers use to identify invisible trails in the deep woods, an appropriate name considering this wine has become our new marker for affordable and collectible Washingtonian excellence. 

Andrew’s career is experiencing the kind of meteoric rise that can only correlate with unmitigated passion. He helps with his family’s own Januik and Novelty Hill labels, in addition to bottling a trio of wines under his own name. The Andrew Januik wines are fresh and powerful, built to showcase the potential of two of Washington’s top AVAs: Red Mountain and Horse Heaven Hills. His dense, evocative Cabernet Sauvignon is a departure from his father’s slightly lighter style, but Andrew is here to make his own mark on Washington’s industry. The Stone Cairn is equal parts adventurous, youthful, and grounded in tradition, truly a shining example of what this terroir can accomplish when vinified by a thoughtful guiding hand. 

Now the trick will be balancing his hands-on involvement while allowing for the exponential growth fed by robust acclaim for his wines. Andrew’s there every step of the way, pacing the vineyard rows with his labrador in tow, tasting grapes in the run-up to harvest, collaborating with the vineyard owners to guide his fruit towards its maximum potential. He chose his three vineyard sources (Obelisco, Quintessence, Ciel du Cheval) for Stone Cairn because they exemplify the density of minerality and savory earth notes that define Red Mountain as an AVA. Located on a southwest-facing slope in south-central Washington, it’s the most densely planted and warmest growing region in the state. But bitterly cold nights and loamy soils riddled with high alkaline gravel keep the wines fresh and light on their feet. That’s the youthful energy and elegance you can taste in today’s ’17—by far the suavest and most pleasurable wine in his lineup.

Grapes for this wine are hand-picked and carefully transported to the Januik winery, kept as separate lots given the vineyard sites ripen at slightly different times. The 2017 Stone Cairn is remarkably velvety and edge-free despite the fact that Andrew practices a somewhat more energetic extraction than his father does for their Januik Winery bottlings. The wines are barreled in 55% new French oak for a full 21 months. This is a thick and vibrant wine built for a slow and satisfying evolution in bottle. 

But that doesn’t mean the Stone Cairn isn’t ready to enjoy right now. It’s a bright ruby color in the glass, and definitely benefits from 30 minutes in a decanter before unleashing the full power of its aromas. Fresh blackberries, pomegranate syrup, black licorice, and crushed violets are all present. There’s a slightly peppery, resinous quality to the aromas that keep it fresh and energetic. The palate is plush, smooth, and deeply flavored—medium to full-bodied and deeply concentrated. The texture alone is a triumph, with fine-grained, tooth-coating tannins that linger long after you’ve taken a bite of food. It’s the perfect balance to the palate’s glossy notes of cassis, dark berries, and sappy wood, all harmoniously integrated. I’m already looking forward to tasting this wine again in five, 10, and 15 years, but tonight I’m drinking it with a beef bourguignon pie and a smile on my face. This is a great example of what’s happening in Washington State right now, so do yourself a favor and check it out—this much wine at this price is a rare feat. See for yourself!