Sometimes it’s useful to remind people that Chablis is indeed Burgundy, even though the region is a good two hours northwest of Burgundy's heartland, the Côte d’Or. Ditto for the Côtes d’Auxerre, which is further afield still—but no less a Burgundy! In fact, while a northerly appellation like Côtes d’Auxerre might have been considered too “marginal” to produce reds of real dimension, a warming globe is likely to place this outer borough of Burgundy square in the spotlight. Today’s electrifying Pinot Noir from Domaine d’Edouard strode right to the podium with total confidence, besting an array of more-expensive Côte d’Or Burgundies to take the “most exciting new discovery” prize at SommSelect headquarters.

Crafted from 100% organically farmed fruit and teeming with cool-climate energy and perfume, this isn’t just a delicious and elegant Pinot Noir but one that screams “Burgundy!” from the rooftops. It checks every box for us, the “value” box chief among them, and will no doubt inspire a return visit to your favorite Burgundy books and maps for a refresher on this out-of-the-way terroir. And if you’ve never had a Pinot Noir from those same Kimmeridgian limestone soils that distinguish Chablis, that’s where curiosity and wanderlust comes into play: This is something special. It delivers taut energy, a deep mineral imprint, and a level of high-toned profundity that perpetually deepens with a decant. Burgundy hounds, mobilize!

Domaine d’Edouard is the lifelong dream project of Edouard Lepesme, who yearned for a life as a Burgundian vigneron while facing the reality that an inherited domaine was not in the cards. His successful wine marketing career for various négociants in Burgundy and Champagne only intensified his desire to be on the other side. Refusing to concede defeat, Edouard picked up a degree in viticulture/winemaking and began to cut his teeth with some noteworthy growers in Chablis (Alice & Olivier de Moor) and the Côte de Nuits (Domaine Naudin-Ferrand). In 2014, he landed on the doorstep of André Donat's estate in Vaux-Auxerre, located on the hillsides overlooking the Yonne Valley. Here, Edouard saw a unique opportunity to work with organically grown Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Aligoté. As he said, “this chance would not come back twice and I did everything to take over the domain.” Four vintages later, here we are. 

And exactly where have we dragged you? The Côtes d'Auxerre? As you cruise along A6, also known as the Autoroute du Soleil (Motorway of the Sun) heading northwest from Dijon on your way to Paris, you might think you’ve left Burgundy behind. Not so fast! Just a bit further up the motorway on the left and west, you’ll see many vineyards stretched across the landscape. Founded on the very same ancient, seabed soils as the hallowed Premier and Grand Crus of Chablis, you just might marvel at what lurks in such proximity. Perhaps in the shadows of the better known, warmer appellations in this Yvonne River Valley, Saint-Bris and Irancy, the vineyards of the Côtes d'Auxerre form a spotty patchwork running north-south along rolling hillsides and slopes at varying altitudes throughout a handful of villages. Historically, these sites remained too cold and often produced wines lacking ripeness with unforgiving, searing acidity. However, these past two decades have witnessed warmer growing seasons year after year despite their long, icy winters. The timing of Edouard’s arrival could not have been better for the formation of his domaine—first planted the same year the A6 roadway was completed.

Edouard now guides an estate totaling nearly 35 acres, fully Certified Organic, split between two slopes with vines ranging from 25-60 years old, all deeply rooted in Kimmeridgian soil. Today’s wine results from the assembly of six, high elevation Pinot Noir parcels strewn across the domain, all hand-harvested and carefully sorted. The natural fermentations last about two weeks and are carried out with nearly half of the grapes remaining in whole bunches while the balance sees the berries removed from the grape stems. The whole clusters enable the finished wine to possess an alluring aromatic lift and a more lively, tannic structure benefiting the wine’s ability to age. Post-fermentation, Edouard ages the wine for one year, 90% in varying sizes of older oak barrels with the remaining 10% in small steel tanks. Bottling occurs without filtration, adding only extremely low and rarely needed doses of sulfur. Today’s Pinot Noir is the poster child for the region’s crunchy, tangy profile, allowing for longer aging but loaded with snappy sweet fruit for “right now” drinking pleasure.

To the eye, the wine shines a rich garnet hue running pale to the rim, clear and bright, on a medium-sized body. A feisty nose exuberantly pushes forward a procession of complex aromas: cherry blossom, red apple skin, crunchy brambleberries, licorice, and cinnamon, all on a spicey mineral backdrop. A vibrant and energetic palate with hints of raspberry jam, dried cranberry, black tea with pokes and shocks of lavender. Earthy yet elegant, textured with well-placed soft, chalky tannins reminiscent of other red wines grow in limestone-rich soils. The warm 2018 vintage in Burgundy casts a flattering light on the taut, finely grained structure of Edouard’s Côtes d'Auxerre Pinot Noir, allowing it to unfold and expand. A 60-minute decant, with some vigorous swirling in Burgundy stems, will most definitely reveal what we concluded when we first landed in these parts: Auxerre is a place to watch with boundless potential, afforded by its cool climate and elongated growing season overlayed by the here-to-stay atmospheric warming. Sprinkle in talented, impassioned young growers like Edouard Lepesme, the future is clearly bright. It’s a recipe that will produce more and more sophisticated, flavorful, densely structured wines that unquestionably transcend this humble, backwater appellation and deliver pleasure well beyond their pay grade. Get some! Heck, at this entry-level price, get lots! The nerve and structure of the wine make it a perfect choice for meaty braises or wintry vegetarian preparations incorporating lentils and/or root vegetables. Another option? The attached country paté, if you’re looking for a project. Enjoy!