Let’s get right to it. Our personal visit to Dalla Valle in the summer of 2019 was unforgettable: We emerged with (1) an invigorating new perspective on the “cult wine” scene, (2) one of the sweetest Napa offers to ever hit SommSelect, and (3) a sneak preview into their yet-to-be-released lineup. This “sneak preview” was in the form of a number of barrel samples, and they absolutely rocked our core. In my original notes, I had written one thing: “the 2017s were going to create major noise.” Those wines have since been bottled and released, and we’re here to say the results have somehow transcended our already lofty expectations. Yes, we swoon over Dalla Valle’s flagship Cabernet ($250+) and stand back in awe when their impossibly limited “Maya” ($500+) finds its way into our glass, but it’s incredibly tempting to not crown “Collina” the champion.
For a legitimate cult producer, this bottling has remained an affordable luxury since vintage one, despite being largely sourced from their estate vineyard and hand-crafted with the same meticulous care as their ultra-premium labels (natural farming; the finest French oak; 20+ months of aging). As such, this “entry-level” bottle has become a darling label around the world, both beloved by critics and rapidly inhaled by collectors/restaurants. Maya herself was generous enough to bestow a tiny allocation of this 2017, making this is a rare, one-time opportunity to acquire what we believe to be one of the best cult producers in the entire Napa Valley.
Dalla Valle is a Napa Valley Shangri-La currently run by the mother-daughter team of Naoko and Maya Dalla Valle. Naoko (of Japanese descent) and her late-husband Gustav (of Italian descent) arrived on the Napa scene in the early 1980s and began planting vines once realizing the beautiful slice of hillside land they had purchased was first-rate for grapes. It’s not all about land though—a skilled winemaker is crucial, and they are far from lacking in that department. Their prominent list of past and present winemakers includes the likes of Heidi Barrett, Mia Klein, Philippe Melka, and, currently Andy Erickson. Combine all these names, and you have the greatest Olympic Winemaking Team ever (I’d support the inclusion of this sport).
Within years of releasing their first vintage in 1986, Dalla Valle’s wines had raised eyebrows, but their 1992 “Maya” changed everything: It received a perfect score and their acclaim went nuclear. Tragically, this was also when Gustav passed away, so Naoko was left with a monumental decision: Sell or continue the business. She bravely chose the latter, and for nearly 25 years now, has been a pioneer for women in wine. Her daughter Maya is now stepping up to the plate. After studying viticulture and working at wineries around the world (most notably Pétrus and Latour), she’s more than prepared to carry this flaming-hot torch and lift it even higher.
We witnessed this firsthand as Maya walked us through their organically farmed vines overlooking the valley floor, pointed out her now-famous “Maya” block, and spoke with intense passion about the intricacies of winemaking. Like us, she was thrilled with the results of their 2017 Collina Dalla Valle, in spite of the terrifying fire season. This bottling is largely culled from their younger estate vines plus a small portion of Oakville grapes nestled down in the valley. In the cellar, the grapes were subjected to a long, variety-separate fermentation before blending. The resulting wine rested in 40% new French oak for over 20 months. It was bottled unfined and unfiltered.
Vinous Media’s Antonio Galloni annually boasts that “Collina Dalla Valle” is among Napa’s best price-to-quality wines, and today’s has received some exceptionally high marks—but that doesn’t come as a surprise to us. The wine is always remarkable and this newest creation transcends what we thought was possible in 2017. In the glass, it spills out a dark, vibrant purple-ruby with magenta hues and all it requires is a 30-minute decant before flaunting the goods. You can expect exceptionally expressive, high-toned aromas of candied violets, black cherry liqueur, black raspberry, Damson plum, huckleberry pie, peppercorn, smoke, crushed rock, nutmeg, and vanilla bean. The full-bodied palate delivers myriad layers of lush berry fruit and oak spice framed by supple tannins and refreshing acidity. As the hours go by, this polished beauty keeps evolving and revealing softer, more luxurious textures. Best of all, I revisited my final few ounces on day three, and it was still humming—which means a fantastic life lies ahead. Enjoy one or two now and save your others for consumption over the next decade. Cheers!
