Most of us have probably done more cooking at home over the last year than in all other years combined. It’s been a time to pull out old cookbooks, take on more ambitious recipes, and therefore a perfect time to uncork a nectar like today’s Sauternes-Barsac from Château Coutet.
No, I’m NOT saying you should cook with it (that would be a felony-level wine crime), but I am saying that this is much more than an “after-dinner” wine to pair with cheese or dessert. My favorite thing to do with a wine like this (especially in the perfect half-bottle format) is plug it in with a savory dish in a multi-course meal. The unctuous, honeyed qualities of this wine are perhaps best put to work as a foil for salt, fat, and heat. Further, this isn’t a more-alcoholic “fortified” wine that will weigh you down: it’s richly concentrated, yes, but with a level of refreshing acidity that may surprise you. Given how eagerly these wines are typically snatched up by our subscribers, perhaps you won’t be surprised at all: We’re talking about one of the most multi-dimensional, full-throttle wine experiences one could ask for. And if you’d rather just put out a plate of assorted cheeses and sip this beauty slowly, far be it from me to interfere. I just want to give some shine to one of the world’s greatest, if under-appreciated, white wines.
Barsac is one of the communes neighboring Sauternes in the Graves region of Bordeaux, close enough to be allowed the use of the name “Sauternes” as a prefix on its label. Of the assorted appellations producing late-harvest whites in the Sauternes style (others include Cérons, Cadillac, and Loupiac), Barsac is perhaps Sauternes’ closest neighbor, although its vineyards are a little flatter, sandier, and closer to the banks of Garonne River. Sémillon is the dominant grape variety in the Barsac vineyards, with smaller percentages of Sauvignon Blanc and Muscadelle rounding out the typical mix; the Sémillon brings the sumptuous, almost honeyed textures and flavors; the Sauvignon Blanc adds citrusy high notes and acidity; and the Muscadelle, usually employed in very small percentages if at all, adds an exotic, floral note.
Château Coutet, owned by the Baly family since 1977, is one of Barsac’s largest and most prominent estates, with 35 hectares planted to Sémillon (75%), Sauvignon Blanc 23%), and Muscadelle (2%). It was originally constructed as a fort in the 13th century, and later caught the attention of American oenophile Thomas Jefferson, who proclaimed that its wines were the best in the region. The name “Coutet” comes from an old French word for “knife,” which is appropriate given the sharp acidity displayed in the wines. Soils are a mix of alluvial sand, gravel, and clay, on a low plateau that sits near the convergence of the Ciron and Garonne Rivers—a confluence of temperatures that creates persistent morning mists toward the end of the growing season. This moist air accelerates the development of a mold known as botrytis cinerea, which attacks grapes that are deliberately left on the vine longer, to develop more intensity of flavor.
As opposed to regular grey rot, which spoils grapes, the botrytis fungus manages to be beneficial, withering the grapes and concentrating their sugars without ruining them. There’s a slight smoky aroma many tasters associate with botrytis, although ultimately, its main effect is to dry the grapes while they’re still on the vine, resulting in ultra-concentrated juice rich not only in sugars but flavor compounds. The grapes are effectively losing “water weight” and don’t experience a similar drop in acidity, so for all their viscosity and sweetness, the wines are simultaneously crisp and quite refreshing. This is not a “fortified” sweet wine, like Port, in which brandy is added to arrest the fermentation and bring the a.b.v. up to about 17-20%; Sauternes-Barsac is merely a “late-harvest” wine with a high concentration of residual sugar.
Nevertheless, Sauternes tends to be expensive, because (a) botrytis needs perfect conditions (misty mornings, sunny afternoons) to develop, meaning that some harvests are much smaller than others; and (b) the act of harvesting the grapes, which is done in multiple passes, is labor-intensive and costly. It’s difficult to predict, from year to year, how much wine you’ll make. But when it works, there’s no other wine in the world like it. Acidity and sugar are both preservatives, and having both in such high concentrations makes this one of the longest-aging wines in the world.
Coutet’s 2011, which is fermented and aged in 80% new French oak barrels, is only now starting to display a few of the more savory, nutty “secondary” aromatic notes that come with time; on balance, this is still bursting with ripe fruits and fresh flowers. In the glass, it’s a bright burnished gold with flecks of orange and amber, with a heady aromatic attack: apricots, peaches, orange peel, mango, almonds, vanilla, yellow flowers, ginger, honeysuckle…the list goes on and on. It is full-bodied and viscous, but also citrusy and bright at the same time. The sweetness is moderated by the lively acid, so that it finishes with freshness. There’s nothing cloying or weighty about it, which is why I advocated for pairing it with savory foods. You can decant it if you like, but you can also pull the cork about 30 minutes before serving (rest the cork over the opening to prevent any fruit-fly intrusion) at 55 degrees in all-purpose white wine stems. It is, of course, a great “meditation wine” for slow, contemplative sipping after a meal, but there are all sorts of sweet/sour/spicy vegetable or seafood dishes that this would pair beautifully with. Check out the flavor combination in the attached “drunken prawns” recipe and you may get inspired. I know I am. Cheers!
