Yet another rare centenarian estate, Bodegas Berberana broke ground in 1877 and has since evolved into a behemoth on the Rioja scene. Although I did say we were unable to taste any of the four ancient Spanish reds on offer today, I couldn’t pass up the opportunity to try this 1952 Gran Reserva—it’s nearly half the age of the estate—so we opened one at the very last minute. Using a Durand, the cork came out almost entirely soak but still fully intact and uncompromised. 

We poured slowly to avoid most of the sediment and reveled in a savory smokeshow that included dried currant, dried red plum, sandalwood, saffron, horse saddle, varnish, sous bois, and coconut husk. How this is 70 years old is beyond me: It’s surprisingly fresh and still swells with prickles of acidity that enliven the little fruit that does remain. It’s a gorgeous old Rioja that has aged to absolute perfection. Drink now and over the next two years. 

Again, proper service is important for wines of antiquity, so please read the following carefully. First, stand your bottle upright for several days (preferably weeks, if you have the time) to allow the sediment and wine to “settle” from its journey. When opening, I strongly recommend extracting the cork with an ah-so opener, and here’s a quick demonstration video if needed. Better still is a Durand, a must-have for lovers of long-aged wines.