I couldn’t afford any Château Pétrus this year...or any year in recent memory. If that’s not a problem you personally struggle with, then I’m truly happy for you. But if you’re like me, fantasizing about your next taste of elite Bordeaux, what I’m about to divulge will change your life.
For 44 years, Jean-Claude Berrouet served as winemaker for Pétrus. During his tenure, he quietly purchased another estate and began developing its vineyards with the help of his son, Jean-François. Upon his retirement from Pétrus in 2007, Jean-Claude began dedicating himself to his quiet family project, honing his technique with signature single-mindedness until the wines reached their fullest potential. The Château isn’t in Pomerol, or even in neighboring St-Émilion. No, their beloved Vieux Château Saint André is in the smallest of St-Émilion’s satellite villages: Montagne Saint-Émilion. Situated to the northeast of Saint-Émilion, this little AOC has enjoyed relative obscurity in the past, but the consistent work of the Berrouets and their show-stopping Merlot-dominant wine have piqued the interest of BDX lovers with big appetites but careful wallets. It’s almost inconceivable that this modestly priced bottle shines with a luster reminiscent of its big brother Pétrus: rich, vivacious, and poised, exploding with blackberries, figs, and cedar, ready to topple the established Right Bank hierarchy. And what better way to get a little Berrouet wine in your cellar than with the legendary 2015 vintage?
Jean-Claude Berrouet has always been best known for his subtlety and restraint, the polar opposite from French superstar winemaker Michel Rolland. But like Michel, Jean-Claude did not limit his genius to Bordeaux. His hands have graced the cellars of Napa’s Dominus and Twomey in addition to Châteaux Magdaleine, Trotanoy, and Pétrus. Wherever the man goes, he leaves a lasting impression of poetic dedication to the vine and its most nuanced expressions of fruit. It’s a philosophy he’s been careful to impart to his sons; while Olivier Berrouet has filled his father’s shoes as winemaker for Pétrus, his brother Jean-François works closely with Jean-Claude to bring the wines of the Vieux Château St. André to fruition. It’s truly a family operation, originally purchased in 1978 with the intention of creating a legacy of gorgeous Merlot-based wines in Montagne St-Émilion.
The appellation is situated in the Libourne subregion on the right bank of the Dordogne river. It’s a consistent source for exceptional value, as the soils are composed of heavy clay soils similar to those of its famous neighbor. Veins of limestone in Vieux Château St. André’s six hectares of grapes add noticeable finesse to the wines, and are part of the reason that Berrouet was attracted to the property in the first place. The Berrouets do everything to preserve that freshness and structure, electing to age the wine in only 15% new French oak barrels. Vintage-wise, 2015 was particularly good to St-Émilion and its satellites, generating ample fruit of outstanding quality and focus. The final blend for the 2015 was 85% Merlot to 15% Cabernet Franc.
The wine is a little darker than I expected given its predominance of Merlot, a sinuous coil of black fruits and graphite accented by whiffs of wild red berries. It’ll really open up after 45 minutes or so in decanter, loosening to expose a soft, fig-jam flavored underbelly streaked with notes of cut cedar and plump cherries. The texture is impressively firm with perfectly extracted tannins—not too thick, not too fine, but luxuriating in that “Goldilocks” zone. Acidity is well balanced with the supple fruits, and Berrouet’s careful use of oak doesn’t eclipse any of the wine’s mysterious subtleties. Pair with grilled lamb drizzled in tangy yogurt sauce and fresh herbs. Berrouet has always been considered a classicist in that his wines are perfectly balanced, show impeccable terroir, and age indefinitely. The 2015 has a long, happy life ahead of it, gently turning from fresh and firm to earthier, silkier. It’s an evolution worth watching, so guard your cellar and take notes!
