In the Barolo region, certain vineyard names ring out a little louder than others. “Ginestra” is one of them. Located in the village of Monforte d’Alba and covering about 300 acres of south-facing, sun-kissed slopes, it isn’t just the physical magnificence of the site itself but the all-star roster of growers producing wine there—the late, great Domenico Clerico; Elio Grasso; and an assortment of Conternos, including the one who may have been the first of them all, Paolo Conterno.
Since 1886, successive generations of the Paolo Conterno family have farmed this ‘grand cru’ site, producing several different Ginestra-designated bottlings, including this one: “Riva del Bric.” Its name references an especially well-exposed parcel of vines near the crest (bricco) of the Ginestra hill, arguably the most important single vineyard in Monforte—and thus all of Barolo. If you are a Barolo aficionado, you’ve seen this vineyard cited on some of the most sought-after, critically beloved wines in the region, known for their unique combination of layered texture and focused energy. They occupy a middle ground between some of the more floral, high-toned styles of villages like La Morra and the brooding, more darkly tannic powerhouses of Serralunga d’Alba. Then there’s the 2016 vintage, every bit as great (if not more so) than its celebrated predecessor, and the term “embarrassment of riches” leaps to mind. But perhaps most important of all is the quality-to-price ratio here: If you are beginning to build a wine cellar, you could fill it with iconic, age-worthy reds like this one and go nowhere near three figures while doing so. I continue to be amazed that this is still possible, but it is, so do not delay—this will blow you away now and for decades to come.
Since Paolo Conterno created the “Casa della Ginestra” in 1886, the family hasn’t moved from that same, special spot. They note that Paolo was among the first producers in Barolo to sell his wines in barrel directly from his cellar, rather than work with the large local négociants (merchant-bottlers) of the time. Many years later, it’s fourth-generation Giorgio Conterno at the helm, producing wines which, for me, are a seamless melding of the traditional and modern. The wines are aged in large, used casks, but they’re built from French, rather than Slavonian, oak; there’s a cleanliness and polish to the Barolos but a clear chord of minerality and savor as well; and they are rich and substantial in texture, rather than lean and angular.
But a lot of this owes to the prime positioning of the Ginestra vineyard, a sizable cru whose undulating slope faces south/southeast, pulling in ample sun and producing the kind of ripeness and concentration Monforte is known for. Altitudes in the Conterno parcels hover around 300-350 meters, with soils of clay marl and sandstone—the classic Barolo mixture.
Also classic is the production process and powerful, perfumed personality of the wine. Hand-harvested fruit for the 2016 was harvested toward the end of October and macerated on its skins for a good three weeks during primary fermentation. It aged for nearly three years in 35-hectoliter French oak casks before bottling, so like all “new release” Barolos, the maturation process has already begun. For now and the near future, however, give this dense and dark-toned beauty at least 60 minutes in a decanter before serving at 60-65 degrees. In the glass, it’s a deep garnet red moving to a pink/brick orange rim, bursting from the glass with aromas of cherry kirsch, black raspberry, blood orange, licorice, cedar, tobacco, leather, and a touch of sweet baking spice. It’s a robust wine but the tannins are very fine: There’s no forbidding ‘edge’ at this youthful stage but it is clearly structured for the long haul in the cellar. And I can’t help but return to this price for a second: This is an unbelievable amount of wine for the money. Complexity, power, prestige…it packs a heck of a lot into that $50 bottle. Break out the big Burgundy bowls and savor every sip with some braised veal shanks over polenta. If you don’t make it through the entire bottle on Day One, don’t fret—it’ll only be better on Day Two. Cheers!
