Practically untraceable online and guaranteed to cost more if you do find it elsewhere, we’re thrilled to say Christmas struck twice for us in the form of a second “XO” allocation from Bien Nacido Estate. This rare Syrah collectible hails from what is arguably the most famous vineyard in the United States, a legendary site that’s been branded a “Top Grand Cru Vineyard,” “Vineyard of the Year,” and “Top 25 Vineyard of the World.” Accordingly, dozens of California’s top producers have jockeyed to slap “Bien Nacido” on their labels, but an all-out wine war has erupted over one particular parcel known as the “X Block.”

In any given year, Bien Nacido Estate only allows four producers access to this rarefied site, but since 2014 they’ve quietly bottled their own proprietary micro-batches. Just how micro? Only 269 cases in the last three vintages, combined. The wines, if you can find them, are region-defining icons that join the peerless ranks of the finest Côte-Rôtie and Hermitage. That’s not conjecture, either. Look at the insane press each vintage has received, especially today’s 2016, and you’ll stagger backward in complete awe. In our eyes, it’s a perfect bottle of Syrah: opulent, harmoniously balanced, layered with multi-dimensional savor/spice/fruit, i.e. built for top collectors and connoisseurs. Instead of spending hundreds of dollars on a single bottle of France’s finest Syrah, do yourself one of the greatest favors imaginable and buy a few bottles of “XO.” I guarantee each one will shatter your expectations be it now, 2030, even 2040.

In the mid-1850s, the Ontiveros family was granted a deed to a parcel originally called Rancho Tepusquet, near Santa Barbara in California. This was a land grant offered by the then-Governor of Mexico as a homestead for his daughter and new son-in-law to create a future and family. From the first days of their time at Rancho Tepusquet, the Ontiveros family had raised cows, horses, and other livestock next to a small tributary of the Santa Maria River. With a crystalline water source and nearly 2,000 acres of pasture land, the family started building their home. Then came Bob and Steve Miller, members of their own fourth-generation farming family, both of whom found this pristine property in 1969 when they were offered two contiguous parcels of land that were part of the original Rancho Tepusquet. With the chance to continue a tradition of farming sustainably and focusing on the highest quality, the two original parcels were reunited and rechristened “Bien Nacido.” Directly (and appropriately) translated as “well-born,” Bien Nacido is about as purebred as vineyards come. 
 
Bob and Steve saw this land as a perfect home for wine grapes. Santa Maria Valley is technically classified as a “Winkler Region 1b.” This is as cold, in terms of average temperature, as Champagne; the Mosel Valley in Germany; Kremstal in Austria; and Burgundy’s Cote d’Or. Understanding this, the Millers planted the vineyard with the first certified virus-free clones of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from UC Davis in 1973—the “X Block” Syrah followed in 1987. 
 
Bien Nacido proudly claims to be the United States’ most influential single-vineyard source, with more than 160 producers over 44 years having used “Bien Nacido” on their labels. Only top vineyards in Burgundy have been designated more, and I am certain that has something to do with their 700-year history. Having been inspired by this, Steve Miller’s youngest son, Nicholas (now the fifth generation) decided to make some of their own small-production wines starting in the late 2000s—their first “X Block” release came in 2014 (saving the best for last). As this block has always been their top-performer, Master Sommelier and Bien Nacido Ambassador, Will Costello, explained to us that there is a line out the door with producers who want the fruit. 

Bien Nacido Estate wines are made to showcase their sustainably farmed, cool-climate terroir by minimizing hands-on factors in the winery. This 2016 “XO” comes entirely from their ungrafted “X Block” vines which produce thick-skinned, intensely concentrated berries that were hand-harvested at night. At their onsite winery, the Syrah grapes fermented (partial whole cluster) via ambient yeasts and then matured for 18 months in French oak barrels, 20% new. It was bottled unfined and unfiltered. 

Lots of wines taste good. Some will keep you talking a few days after. And then there’s a microscopic fraction that will stay locked in your memory bank for the rest of your life. In the Syrah department, these bottlings are typically reserved for the best of Northern Rhône—not today. Extract the cork on Bien Nacido’s 2016 “XO” Syrah and a dark purple, aromatic vortex comes funneling out: blackcurrant, black cherry, and plums certainly exist, but it’s all about raw leather, smoke, candied violets, cracked pepper, dark-roast coffee, hot stone, green olive tapenade, and grilled meats. It’s a masterfully made Syrah that explodes with intense savory components and layers of subtle, dark brambly fruits, all of which lie on a powerful foundation of fine-grained tannins and mouthwatering tension. As always with Bien Nacido, these are built to age and those who practice the lost art of patience will be heavily rewarded over the next two decades. Beware: If you open one now, it will nearly be impossible to keep your hands off the others because the wine is just that sensational. That, however, won’t stop me from tempting you with service notes. After a 60-minute decant, serve in large Bordeaux stems around 60 degrees and prepare for a world-class Syrah experience that will take your breath away. Cheers!