Today’s gorgeous Cabernet Sauvignon marks the fourth consecutive vintage we’ve offered from Matthiasson, and I can definitively say it’s their most thrilling and resolutely classic bottling to date. After pulling the cork at our “Round Table” tasting, the nose erupted with the purest aromatics to be found anywhere in world-famous Napa Valley, and its complex, ethereal, multi-textural flavors left us positively stunned. But I’m certain we’re not alone in our excitement: Any long-in-the-tooth critic or collector will label this a bonafide classic and supremely elegant Cabernet, and even the Matthiassons themselves will tell you their ability to capture Napa’s unbeatable, old-school charm hit unprecedented levels in 2017.
This is a game-changer that will forever open your eyes to the breathtaking finesse of Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, and that’s why we always seize the small window of opportunity to acquire a new parcel of any size. That, of course, is not groundbreaking news for you: Every allocation we’ve managed to wrangle has been inhaled in one collective breath, so it’s hard to believe any of our subscribers remain in the dark about these classy, sought-after gems. But, if you’re out there, here’s why they attract so much attention: When it comes to supple, terroir-driven Cabernet, “Winemaker of the Year” Steve Matthiasson is a Master General, and his ability to consistently craft wine that personifies the bygone era of Napa Valley is rivaled only by few. For those who enjoy elegant Napa Cab and the savory complexities of serious Bordeaux, Matthiasson must be a substantial part of your fine-wine rotation—if you're fast enough to score a few bottles, that is.
Having moved to Napa and toyed with a small parcel of vines in their backyard in 2002, how is it that Steve and his wife, Jill Klein Matthiasson, stand out among the hundreds of producers in the Napa Valley today? Well, their wines pack an astonishing amount of flavor into every ounce, at modest alcohol levels, and Steve’s deep knowledge in viticulture allows him to harness the power of the soil and vine. As stated on their website, the Matthiasons—who met at UC Davis and emphasize that their production is a family affair—believe that winemaking “...is a natural extension of farming.” It’s because of this philosophy that they’ve built a deep list of clients whom they assist with organic and sustainable farming (e.g. Araujo Estate, Spottswoode, Chappellet, and Dalla Valle).
So, yes, sustainability and organic farming is a necessity in their own vineyards and when they do source other fruit, they make sure it has been cared for in the same way. Take today’s Cabernet Sauvignon (it also contains a smattering of Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Petit Verdot), which is a blend of six unique vineyards, both leased and owned. A few standouts: The “Red Hen” vineyard in Oak Knoll (owned by the illustrious Araujo family) produces tiny, superbly concentrated berries at very low yields; the “Dead Fred” vineyard is rooted in rich volcanic soils in the heart of Coombsville; and Matthiasson’s loamy-alluvial home vineyard is the coolest site of the bunch, allowing for great acid retention. Ultimately, this special wine is a masterclass on blending and balance. In 2017, the Matthiassons were able to completely finish harvest before the fires started and their wines fermented “while the helicopters flew overhead dropping water on the nearby flames.”
In the winery, the grapes fermented at cool temperatures with low rates of extraction (it’s about perfume and elegance, not concentration and power) and saw twice-daily pump-overs. It’s also worth noting that Matthiasson understands the importance of undisturbed, extended aging for Cabernet, which is why they age theirs for 20 months in French barrels, 20% new, plus an additional six months in bottle before release. As always, this batch comes directly from them to you, only stopping at SommSelect to be packed and shipped out.
When blind-tasting Matthiassson, I routinely misidentify it as a much-pricier wine and these consistent $75-$100+ calls speak volumes to their consistently high quality. And the 2017 really blew us away with its ability to be so supplely perfumed and savory on the nose, yet full of slow-building power and structure on the palate. Thanks in large part to earlier harvesting, lighter new oak usage, and a long élevage, this interplay of elegance and robustness results in the best of both worlds; it’s exactly what a classic Napa Valley and Bordeaux drinker like me gravitates towards. In the glass, it reveals high tones of brambleberry, black raspberry liqueur, Bing cherry, spiced plums, cedar shavings, crushed rock, dried earth, wild herbs, loose tobacco, clove, and a hint of lead. Its tannins are already extremely fine-grained, and with Matthiasson’s signature lifted acidity, the wine practically glides across the palate. To best experience each finessed layer, we recommend a 60-minute decant before service in large Bordeaux stems around 65 degrees. This pings every taste bud with a sonorous, deep-fruited, savory ring and leaves you thirsty for more with its ultra-fine mineral imprint. Enjoy now and over the next 10-15 years!
