When it comes to Jean-Claude Marsanne, the secret can no longer be contained: His domaine has officially graduated from culty “sleeper” to full-fledged superstar. With the 2016 vintage, Marsanne has created an exemplary Saint-Joseph—a pure, chiseled expression of Northern Rhône Syrah bristling with energy and tautly balanced fruit.
The wines of this ascendant talent were once rare gems in the United States, not very well known and even less frequently available. True Northern Rhône junkies knew of this modest grower from travels in the region and wine lists in France, with scant few bottles making their way back here. Luckily for all of us, things have changed. We were introduced to the producer last year and became immediate, ardent fans, scooping up all the bottles of 2015 we could get. We now have a reliable, if limited, supply of this wine available (still only 5% of the annual production is exported from France). Upon inspection, there isn’t much secret to the magic of Domaine Marsanne: epic old-vine vineyards with incredible terroir; meticulous farming, and a simple hands-off cellar approach. Located in the village of Mauves, right alongside Saint-Joseph luminaries such as Gonon and Chave, Marsanne is making his presence felt in a major way—do not sleep on this one!
The Marsanne domaine is still a modest one, focusing on vineyard work above all else, and the centrality and importance of Mauves cannot be overstated: The wines of Saint-Joseph were once simply called “Vins de Mauves” and were even name-checked by Victor Hugo in “Les Miserables.” The Marsannes have been in Mauves for four generations, with Jean-Claude the latest, having started working with his father in 1991. Eventually, he has taken over from his father and while continuing the tradition of hand working the vineyards, using older barrels and indigenous yeasts, he has also softened the wines’ rough edges, making elegant and age-worthy wines that compete with the best of the region.
Jean-Claude owns six hectares of land in the Saint-Joseph AOC, highlighted by old-vine holdings of Syrah in the communes of Mauves and Tournon. Today’s wine is a blend of several lieu-dits from these world-famous villages, sourced from vines up to 80 years old. The vineyards lie on precipitously steep southeast-facing slopes of decomposed granite, perched high above the Rhône. While not certified organic, the domaine employs natural and organic methods at every turn. The pitch of the vineyards require that the Marsannes work by hand, plowing and turning the soil with pickaxes. All vines are trained in the traditional Northern Rhône method of gobelet (head-trained) pruning, thus limiting the yield significantly. They undertake an initial sorting in the vineyard just before harvest to ensure that only the best fruit makes its way to the winery. Upon arrival, the Syrah grapes are de-stemmed and fermented for three to four weeks in open stainless steel vats using indigenous yeasts. After twice-daily punch-downs throughout fermentation, the wine is moved to 228- and 600-liter oak barrels to age for 12 to 18 months before bottling.
The 2016 vintage is a classic expression of Northern Rhône aromatics and structure, showing both depth and energy, from a somewhat cool growing season that gradually warmed and extended into a later harvest of nearly ideal conditions. For Marsanne’s Saint-Joseph, this translates into a wine that is at once densely compact and aromatically lifted. The color is dark magenta almost to the rim, with wonderful concentration. The nose takes a bit of coaxing to reveal itself, so I recommend a 30-60 minute decant before serving. I recommend a Bordeaux glass, but don't be afraid of a Burgundy bowl if you want to enhance the aromatic experience further. Once open, the wine is a swirling wonderland of Syrah aromas, with dark cherry scents, flint, wet slate, brambly blackberry, black pepper, applewood bacon, and sage, with top notes of lavender, violet, and cardamom. The palate is where the magic of the 2016 vintage really comes out, with electric energy that bursts onto the palate from the start with blue and black fruits that carry through to the finish. There are dark, mineral notes and smoother tannins towards the end that give way to floral, higher acid tones, and a long lip-smacking finish. I love where this wine is now but I am even more excited to see where it will be in 5 or 10 years when I am sure the secondary, meaty elements will start to be layered on top. This is the kind of affordable cellar wine that will age wonderfully for a reasonable investment. While most red meats would benefit from a glass of this Saint-Joseph alongside it, I find myself craving a lamb burger as an ideal accompaniment. During these cooler evenings, a glass of this Syrah is just about the perfect companion. Cheers!
