We’ve spent a couple of years and thousands of words hyping up the Syrahs and Chenins of Mullineux, and our sweat equity has not gone unheeded: Like the wines of Ganevat, Knoll, PYCM, and Chave, a cult following is brewing and each offer is met with undivided attention and rapid trigger fingers. Couple that with everyone’s devotion to traditionally crafted reds from Napa and Bordeaux, and today’s first-ever Cabernet Sauvignon release from Chris and Andrea Mullineux should cause all-out pandemonium.
For their special “Leeu Passant” project, they began an exhaustive, years-long search to recreate South Africa’s traditional wines from decades past. With the help of viticultural superstar Rosa Kruger (equipped with nicknames like “Old-Vine Champion” and “Queen of The Cape”), the Mullineuxs rediscovered old vineyards and uncorked bottlings from the 1960s-80s with the very winemaking legends that made them. Because of the country’s massive shift to modernity in the 1990s à la Napa Valley, Mullineux’s sole mission was to revive the Cape’s classic, all-but-forgotten masterpieces. And, after six years of learning, tasting, and experimenting, they’ve emerged with their first-ever Stellenbosch Cabernet release. Truly, the emphatic adherence to South African tradition speaks deafening volumes here: fermented naturally and aged for a staggering 20 months in large-format barrels, this spectacular red showcases powerful savor, lush texture, and supreme elegance. No Cabernet collection is complete without this thrilling new addition!
Mullineux has been on my radar for many years now. In 2011, I deviated from my traveling wine group in South Africa and began a week of solo exploration: I drove a second-rate stick shift bakkie (driving on the right side of the car, I might add) away from Cape Town and into the hillsides of Swartland, where I stumbled upon the town of Riebeek-Kasteel and, subsequently, Mullineaux’s wines. At the time, this was only their fourth year of operation, but I was stunned by the high quality of their small-batch lineup. Accordingly, Mullineux has rapidly risen up the ranks, amassing accolades and critical acclaim that’s elevated Swartland’s exciting wine frontier to never-before-seen levels. The region’s dramatic transformation from bulk wine to serious, terroir-driven, handcrafted gems is practically unparalleled.
Mullineux & Leeu Family Wines came into existence in 2007 and has been operated by husband-wife team Chris and Andrea Mullineux (and their partner Analjit Singh), since day one. They were both trained in wine—Chris, at the University of Stellenbosch and Andrea at UC Davis—and after several years of separate wine travels across the world, they met each other in Champagne. They eventually tied the knot and their joint passions pushed them to open a small winery in South Africa (Chris’ home country). They chose Swartland due to its unique soils and elevated vineyards; for them, it just “felt right.” As for the future, it’s bright and mutual between Chris and Andrea: “Our goal is to keep grounded and happy and to slowly learn...so we consistently bottle balanced wines with a sense of place.”
Leeu Passant is their newest project, and it’s an ambitious one that strives to recreate the historic, pre-1990 wines of the Western Cape. Although many of the reds back in the day were dry blends with a proclivity for Cinsault, old-vine Cabernet thrived in special pockets of Stellenbosch, and that’s the sole focus in today’s brand new release. It’s a blend of several unique, cooler-climate parcels: One bush-vine vineyard buried in deep alluvial; two in the foothills of Helderberg Mountain, one in the granite-rich Polkadraai Range. In 2018, the Cabernet Sauvignon from each distinct site was harvested by hand and completely de-stemmed at the winery. The grapes fermented naturally in stainless steel with a rigorous punch-down and pump-over regimen. Following, the wine was pressed off its skins into 500-liter French barrels, 30% new, where it aged for 20 months before bottling.
Thirty minutes of air is all one needs to properly experience this beautiful Stellenbosch Cabernet Sauvignon. It pours a deep purple-garnet in the glass and wastes no time stunning the taster with powerful, distinctly unique, far-reaching aromatics: huckleberry pie, dried black raspberry, crème de cassis, cherries, red plum, crushed stone, licorice, tarragon, green peppercorn, tobacco, purple flowers, menthol, cedar box, cacao, baking spice—it dazzles the senses! Velvety soft tannins embrace the elegant yet full-bodied palate and an intense, compact core unleashes multiple layers of wild herbs and savory earth. The wine is singularly beautiful and supple, competing with the upper crust of the world’s Cabernets but never once losing sight of its origin. It is to be enjoyed now with a decant or stowed in a dark, cool place for enjoyment over the next 5-10+ years. Cheers!
