I don’t want to toot the SommSelect horn too noisily here, but hopefully you’ve noticed the steady stream of blue-chip Italian collectibles we’ve offered in just the last month alone—and how startlingly affordable they are given their elite quality. I’m talking about icons like Montevertine, Cavallotto, Fontanafredda, all of them cellar-worthy treasures for well under $100, and today we’ve got another, this time with bottle age, too!
Our recent offer history notwithstanding, I’m still surprised—shocked, actually—when a wine like Ada Nada’s 2013 “Cichin” turns up at a price like this. I think there are a lot of collectors out there who think they must spend $200-$300 a bottle for a wine to be “cellar-worthy.” But you don’t—especially if your intention is to enjoy the wine after letting it rest for a while, rather than just re-sell it. Frankly, “Cichin” is going to appreciate in both senses, but I’m here for the wine, not the speculation: This is traditionally styled Nebbiolo at its best, just beginning to blossom and promising more heady thrills in the years to come. As I said, you don’t need to go into triple digits to drink truly world-class wine—especially when it’s Italy we’re talking about!
The Nada estate was established by Carlo Nada in 1919 in the village of Treiso—one of the three key towns that comprise the Barbaresco wine appellation. Today, the property is run by Anna Lisa Nada (daughter of brand namesake Ada) and her husband, Elvio Cazzaro, who’ve been working the vines and producing wine since 2001. During that time, the property has gradually expanded from a mere three hectares to its current nine hectares of vineyards, all of them in their home village of Treiso—and mostly within two of the village’s greatest cru vineyards, “Valeirano” and “Rombone.” All farming is organic, average vine age is 40 years, fruit is harvested exclusively by hand, and the family produces about 2,000 cases of Barbaresco wine per year. I was an eager buyer and seller of Ada Nada wines in my restaurant days—the value proposition always made them a customer favorite—and the crown jewel of the estate is unquestionably their long-aged riserva, “Cichin.”
The Cichin bottling originates from 55-year-old vines in a prime south-facing portion of the fabled “Rombone” vineyard. Maceration on skins during fermentation lasts around two weeks and, after alcoholic and malolactic fermentation, the wine is aged in large Slavonian oak botti for anywhere from 36 to 50 months, depending on the vintage. Upon reaching maturity, the wine is bottled without fining or filtration, then aged for another year-plus before release. The result is a wine of intensity, depth, and detail—one of those wines that combines power and finesse in a way that would seem impossible if you weren’t experiencing it firsthand. Just 200 cases—total—of this wine are produced each year, so to have any at all to offer today is a stroke of luck!
In the glass, the 2013 “Cichin” shows off the charming, finessed side of Nebbiolo without sacrificing power and persistence (if that sounds physically impossible, you’re not drinking enough good Barbaresco). It’s a deep garnet red in the glass moving to a pink/orange rim, with a rich core of cherry, plum, and red currant fruit supported by scents of violet, rose, white pepper, leather, tobacco, and warm, wintry spices. It has the lithe, taut structure Barbaresco is famous for, with tannins that have been sanded to a fine grain via a few years in bottle. Still, this is a red to decant 30-60 minutes before serving at 60 degrees in Burgundy stems. Try to take it slow, because this is a wine that will continue to unfold over time—and will likely be even better on Day Two, if you’re able to hold out. Pair it with all things roasted, braised, or otherwise full of earthy, fatty goodness. Enjoy!
