Ever since hearing whispers of Pierre Ménard, a
vigneron whose reputation has rocketed from unknown to top-tier in the span of a few years, we’ve been on a mission to offer every shade and style of wine he produces. Today’s wine is probably the most fascinating, labor-intensive, multi-dimensional wine in his distinguished lineup: a botrytis-affected late-harvest Chenin Blanc from the famed Coteaux du Layon.
Along with Sauternes in Bordeaux and Tokaji in Hungary, the Coteaux du Layon is one of those magical places where late-harvested sweet wines completely transcend the “dessert” category and enter much more profound territory. That’s why Ménard named it “Cosmos”—because it’s a white wine of seemingly limitless dimension. This wine was harvested over the course of six passes, each one yielding more concentrated grapes, and yet the brilliant natural acidity of Chenin Blanc still shines like a gemstone. “Sweet” is an inadequate word to describe this wine; not only will it show its best alongside savory foods (especially salty cheeses), there are savory elements in the wine itself—the deep mineral impression that characterizes the very best wines of the Loire. If you’re up for a wine experience that is both intellectual and sensual, this is a bottle to get on your table as soon as possible.
Fans of small-production European wines will recognize the story of Domaine Pierre Ménard: that of a new generation expanding a family’s production and legacy. Pierre’s family has long owned 20 hectares of Chenin and Sauvignon Blanc vines in the Anjou region, selling the grapes to the local cooperative. Seeing the opportunity to make something special from the old vines on the property, Pierre decided to study enology at the local school in Angers. After formal training, he traveled the world to learn more about wine production, working in Canada, New Zealand, and Hungary. In 2013, Pierre returned home and started harvesting two hectares of his family’s vines to make his first vintage, which was greeted with instant acclaim. Now established for almost seven years, each release of Pierre’s wines is greeted with hot anticipation in the market, most bottles getting gobbled up within a short time of arrival. The high quality from the outset could certainly be attributed in part to his strict use of organic and biodynamic farming principles. His parents farmed the family’s vines in the typical fashion, using treatments when necessary, but Pierre uses no herbicides or pesticides, instead focusing on biodynamic herbal tea infusions and other techniques to foster the vines in a sustainable, natural fashion.
While Ménard’s lineup consists mainly of dry wines, “Cosmos” draws on the long tradition of late-harvest sorcery in the Coteaux du Layon AOC—a terroir which, like Sauternes in Bordeaux, is well-positioned for development of botrytis cinerea (“noble rot”) in grapes. Faye d’Anjou, one of several communes along the Layon River (a Loire tributary), is one of several Coteaux du Layon “villages” that can append the appellation name on the wine’s label. Humid air from the Layon provides ideal conditions for the growth of botrytis, producing grapes which, when picked at the right time, have lost enough water that the remaining juice is an unctuous nectar of incredible complexity—layered, honeyed and unlike anything else in the wine world. The naturally high acidity of Chenin Blanc provides higher toned notes and counterbalances the sugar so that the wines of Coteaux du Layon have a drier, more refreshing appeal.
The soil of Coteaux du Layon, a gravelly mix of schist and sandstone, distinguishes the region as well. Pierre sources grapes from two of his family’s Chenin Blanc vineyard sites for Cosmos: “Le Quart des Noels” and “Le Clos des Mailles,” both with phthalate (siltstone) and schist soils. These vineyards contain the oldest vines on the property, some dating back to 1920, and Pierre also makes single-vineyard dry wines from each site. With the Cosmos, he makes up to six passes through the vineyard after the initial harvest for the dry wines, selecting grapes that have concentrated through both extended hang time as well as botrytis. Through these multiple late harvests, Pierre strives for “cosmic” harmony with the wine, hence the name.
The slow fermentation process takes place with ambient yeasts in small glass and steel containers. After brief aging in stainless steel, the wine is bottled in a 500ML format—although that is not due to elevated alcohol (this bottling clocks in at 11%). The color of the wine is the first indication of its special properties, with a golden, amber hue and apparent viscosity. I suggest serving it close to 50 degrees, not so cold as to mute the aromas. On the nose, the aromas unfurl slowly but powerfully, with honeysuckle, marzipan, apricot, Bosc pear, baked orchard fruit, orange marmalade, and black tea. The concentration of flavors include a densely packed mix of peach, quince, mango, honeyed praline, white pepper and lemon oil. Even with the ripe fruit and presence of sweetness, the wine finishes with such a satisfying pop of acid that the lingering finish is not cloying, but long and resonant. While there are enough flavors to make a meal in this wine, we can see having a glass with a cheese plate or warm plum cake or apple crumble. It sings out right now but it will surely last for 10+ years and keep increasing in complexity over that time.
