Few rosés pack as succulent a punch as Moshin’s hand-crafted offering from the heart of the Russian River Valley. It’s a highly-anticipated ‘local legend’ of a wine, their first to sell out and a favorite companion to lazy afternoons on Northern California’s wild, rocky beaches.
Rick Moshin and his family have built something very deliberate and special over the past 30 years of cultivating Pinot Noir in their home state. It’s telling when the Moshin rosé commands as much respect as neighboring Pinot Noirs three times the price. Made with minimally invasive methods in a family-built gravity flow winery powered by the sun, this is about as California as wine can get. Pinot Noir fruit is sourced from premium vineyards throughout the Russian River Valley, a careful amalgamation of plots much greater than the sum of their parts. The 2019 has an uncanny ability to capture the floral and mineral polarities of fruit grown in the river valley’s sandy loam as a result. It’s a chameleon bottle for play and pairing alike—instantly lovable and effortlessly drinkable. Stock up accordingly!
The evolution from teacher to celebrated winemaker might seem like a tricky gear change, but Rick Moshin contains multitudes. He was teaching math at San José State University by day and supplementing with a side job at a local home-brewing supply store when the wine bug bit him hard. Before long, Rick was spending every free moment driving through the nooks and crannies of Sonoma County, brokering grape deals between vineyards and wineries. Rick probably knew the vineyards of Sonoma better than anyone when his favorite one—a 10-acre plot right in the Middle Reach of the Russian River—finally came up for sale. It was 1989 and the time was ripe; Rick turned his attention from grape brokering to immersing himself in a lifelong dream of hand-crafting Pinot Noirs from the deep Goldridge soils he’d been studying for years. Every bottle of wine Moshin has made since is in continuity with that dream—probably some of the best price-per-quality left in a region that’s enjoyed extraordinary success in the 30 years since Rick made it his home base.
Still family-owned and operated, the Moshin winery was designed and built by Rick himself. It’s one of the few 100% gravity-flow properties in California, completely solar-powered and designed to move Rick’s beloved fruit as delicately as possible between four levels—finishing right at their tasting room. There’s this feeling of infectious joy and satisfaction when you visit; this is so clearly a family operation that feels extraordinary pride in every single grape.
Their now-28 acres of vineyard are plated to clones Swan, Pommard, 115, and Romanée-Conti—concentrated in their home base of the Russian River but also spread through farther reaches of Sonoma. It’s not a surprise their rosé has a cult following seeing as it’s made from some of the highest quality Pinot Noir fruit in all of Sonoma. Rick’s philosophy of winemaking is “minimally invasive,” and the wine is both fermented and aged in stainless steel for a finish as pure and refreshing as the cold waters of the Russian River itself.
This rosé is a really nice medium pink highlighted with silver, fragrant and playful right out of the bottle at a cool 45-50 degrees. It smells like ripe watermelon muddled with rose petals. The succulent fruit is balanced by a dose of lip-smacking salinity courtesy of the Pacific fog. On the palate the wine develops a little blood orange zest, cherry skin, and a double-dose of bone-dry mouth-watering acidity. It’d be difficult to find a more easy-drinking yet well-structured bottle, each drop designed to quench your thirst and celebrate Pinot’s depth of flavor. Don’t crowd this bottle with too much food. It’ll be a great match with a glorious tomato galette, right out of the oven. There’s not much Moshin rosé left once the locals have their fill, so do your future self a favor and get a few bottles to savor—they’ll be gone before you know it, and so will Summer.