Talk to any Napa Valley wine veteran/collector/insider, and they’ll tell you Hendry is a Napa Valley icon: Last year marked the 80th consecutive vintage the Hendrys have diligently worked their benchland estate vineyard, a historic feat that has resulted in complete mastery over Napa Cabernet Sauvignon. But that’s not all—in an age where holding back inventory is generally avoided, Hendry channels their ingrained tradition by slowly re-releasing classic vintages that are entering a prime drinking window. When they offered us their 2005 last year, it was in a beautiful spot, but another year, and re-release, has opened up another extraordinary dimension.
You can attribute that to perfect provenance, certainly, but their famed terroir mustn’t be overlooked: These exquisitely crafted “old-school” wines are from purebred farmers who have spent decades familiarizing themselves with benchland vines, and I’d argue their heirloom Cabernet Sauvignon parcels are the cream of the crop. Once a major source for Opus One (whose 2005 is now soaring past $500), Hendry’s own bottling offers an affordable, vividly profound snapshot of highly revered Napa Valley real estate. This small trove hasn’t ever moved from its place of origin, so take comfort in knowing that you’re receiving a flawless expression of place from one of Napa’s true icons. This is the final tranche!
Their hallowed tract of land is one of Napa’s genesis vineyards, having first been planted in 1859 and purchased by George Hendry’s father in 1939. As grape prices began exploding in the second half of the 20th century, farmers began a vine-planting frenzy. Consequently, most of Hendry estate was re-planted in the early ’70s, which quickly caught the attention of some legendary Napa neighbors, including Robert Mondavi. According to Hendry, “by the late ‘80s, Mondavi was buying all of the Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, and dividing the Cabernet Sauvignon with Opus One.” Now consisting of 50 separate blocks, Hendry boasts unique grape varieties and climatic nuances to discover with each step, but without question, their heirloom parcels are old-vine Cabernet Sauvignon—the heart and soul of today’s stunning 2005.
Sustainability is a major focus at Hendry, which can be a tricky uphill battle due to the sheer number of blocks, microclimates, and 11 unique grape varieties. One thing that remains constant, however, is the classic alluvial soils and the much-needed breeze funneling up from San Pablo Bay. For their 2005 flagship bottling, four blocks of Cabernet Sauvignon were chosen, with their cherished block 8—planted in 1974—making up the core (see the
attached map if you want to geek out). Following a long fermentation in 2005, the resulting wine was transferred into 100% new French oak for 18 months. Today’s stock hasn’t moved from Hendry since bottling. Ultimately, the Hendrys live on three winemaking principles: “Keep the alcohol under control, produce dry wines, and do not allow oak to take control of the flavors.” Sounds like an ‘old world’ mindset, doesn’t it?
Hendry’s 2005 Estate Cabernet exhibits an opaque dark ruby core moving out to a vibrant ruby band on the rim, but you’ll find this is a totally different bird once you put your nose in the glass. It’s deeper, denser, and more brooding yet equally as fresh (it drinks like an 8- to 10-year-old wine). With a 30-minute decant, haunting, slow-building aromas of Chambord, currants, ripe plums, dried black cherries, volcanic ash, tobacco leaf, dusty gravel, raw leather, damp violets, cigar box, and turned soil swirl around a core of tightly knit baking spices. The palate is a lively tour de force, showing off dark, silken fruits and granular tannins that provide additional texture. Rich layers of judicious oak flavors, crushed earth, and savory herbs sing together in harmony, meaning this is right smack dab in the middle of its drinking window and will be staying there over the next 5-8 years. Simply enjoy in Bordeaux stems around 65 degrees before matching it alongside a tender filet mignon cut soaked in a decadent mushroom sauce. Cheers!