British Master of Wine Anne Krebiehl described today’s wine as having “both impact and agility.” That’s nicely said, and I agree wholeheartedly, but I’ll go ahead and add a more crassly commercial two cents: This $29 Chianti Colli Senesi could easily be mistaken for a Brunello di Montalcino costing at least twice as much.
Castello Romitorio is itself a producer of distinguished Montalcino wines, and like many of its neighbors, it includes a Chianti Colli Senesi among its offerings. The “Colli Senesi,” or “hills of Siena,” are one of the seven sub-zones of the broader “Chianti” region, and the Chianti Colli Senesi appellation boundaries overlap those of Montalcino. The conventional wisdom on a Chianti Colli Senesi from a blue-chip Montalcino house is that it’s an “entry-level” type of wine from “lesser” vineyard holdings, but I keep encountering examples that, when value-for-dollar is factored in, are the stars of the show. Just off the top of my head I think of stellar Colli Senesi wines from Le Ragnaie (Montalcino), Villa Sant’ Anna (Montepulciano), and Montenidoli (San Gimignano), and now I’ve got another one to add to this roster of all-stars. Much like the best Rosso di Montalcino wines, today’s 2018 is designed to get you thinking, “If this is what they can do for $29, can you imagine how great their Brunello must be?” The only problem, of course, is people like me, who are perfectly happy with this wine. No “trading up” required—I’ve got all I need right here!
Like all the Castello Romitorio wines, this one features label art from renowned Italian artist Sandro Chia, who acquired the historic property in the 1980s. The area contains archaeological ruins dating to ancient Etruscan times, and the Romitorio castello itself is built on Roman foundations. When Chia arrived is was essentially a ruin, with no vineyards or winery, but it is now a showplace for both wine and Chia’s art. There’s a museum-like quality to the place, with Chia’s paintings and other artworks interspersed with antique statuary, recovered Roman columns, and other artifacts.
The 2018 Romitorio Chianti Colli Senesi is 100% Sangiovese, which will be immediately obvious to anyone who loves this variety—you couldn’t ask for a more textbook example. It aged about 10 months in French oak barrels of assorted sizes, so the oak component isn’t as pronounced as in a young Brunello di Montalcino; instead, it’s all about pure Marasca cherry fruit and lots of smoky, leafy underbrush. In terms of scale, it reads more “Brunello” than “Chianti,” though—it has some power and good concentration of color, shining a deep garnet-red in the glass. Heady aromas of black cherry, black raspberry, orange peel, leather, cedar, tobacco, and forest floor. It is medium-plus in body, with a touch of oak-derived spice and, most important of all, great freshness. Its balance and nerve are what set it apart for me—it’s powerful without being excessively heavy. Decant it 30 minutes before serving in large Bordeaux stems at 60-65 degrees and you might as well be in the middle of Tuscany (and, given current travel restrictions, that’s as close as you’re going to get). Grilled ribeye steak is the obvious, time-honored choice here, but all sorts of char-broiled vegetables and/or meats will work. This is a classic, plain and simple. Enjoy!
