Tasting today’s top-vintage, top-site Burgundy instantly recalled a question I posed last year. That is, how often do we get to offer Grand Cru white Burgundy? Generally speaking, only a few times a year—on a good year—and so far just twice in 2020. The reason is overtly simple: While they evoke the deepest, most powerful emotions, many are expensive to a sinful extent, and one must keep their nose to the grindstone to secure the best of the best. That’s why savvy buyers have commenced a hurried exodus to the northern reaches of Burgundy, where Chablis’ royal cluster of Grand Crus offer unrivaled Chardonnay value. Especially in 2018, a storied “vintage for the ages,” these terroir-infused gems are worthy of any cellar, wine list, or table—but even these, too, can be extremely tricky to obtain.
We made sure to circumvent that issue by going directly through a nascent import who spent the better part of last year driving back roads, shaking hands, and emerging with today’s rarely-spotted gem from Tremblay-Marchive. Coming from the heavyweight Vaudésir Grand Cru, Lyne Marchive organically farms
⅔ of a single hectare here and doles out her luxurious, barrel-matured creations in ridiculously small quantities. Case in point: These wines are practically non-existent in the US, and this specific bottling
is non-existent, other than here, of course. If further convincing is required, I’ll leave you with this: I’ve tasted a couple of $150+ Grand Cru white Burgundies this year and today’s absolutely wipes the floor with them. Up to six per person.
Lyne Marchive is a passionate vigneronne who has been at the helm of her family’s domaine since 1972 (as of 2018, she has officially handed the reins to her daughter and son). While she oversees the viticultural aspects, her winemaker, Guénolé Breteaudeau, crafts their wines with as little intervention as possible. Coming from Muscadet territory in the Loire, he was hired in 2006 after obtaining a degree in enology. A fun note: Before Lyne came aboard, most of her holdings had already been put together by her parents in the mid-1900s when 2.5 acres of fertile land (i.e. wheat) could be traded for 5 acres of vineyard. Knowing what we do now about the landscape and profitability of wine, one part wheat for two part grapes hardly seems like a fair trade!
Amidst a steep, natural amphitheater in the center of Chablis’ seven Grand Crus rests Grand Cru Vaudésir. This iconic vineyard produces some of the most long-lived wines in Burgundy and is a steal when compared to Grand Cru whites of Côte de Beaune. Lyne Marchive only farms .77 hectares here and yields are kept exceedingly low. Through traditional winemaking, her sustainably farmed vines, planted in 1967 and 1986, are transformed into a pure, uber-concentrated reflection of this storied terroir. Following a strict manual harvest, fermentation (both alcoholic and malolactic) occurs in 1-7-year-old French barrels. The second step of this traditional, non-interventionist cellar work was further barrel aging on raw lees until a gentle bottling in early 2020.
With aromatic complexity, texture, and an indelible display of minerality, this wine offers a staggering expression of place. This is such a pleasurable, hedonistic experience as is, but the real beauty of Grand Cru Chablis is its evolution at 10+ years old. That said, I can’t help but recommend that you open one now. After a minimum 30-minute decant, it’s insanely delicious. Heck, it’s sensational even without the decant: The moment the cork is pulled, opulent Chardonnay aromas burst out: Pineapple, yellow peach, ripe yellow apple, buttered toast, lees, chalk, oyster shell, crushed stones, salt-preserved lemon, and a touch of vanilla. It smells like a flashy, hedonistic, high-dollar Côte de Beaune and drinks like an elite, beautifully balanced Grand Cru Chablis. This will instantly make you (1) believe that top Chablis is equal to top Côte de Beaune and (2) see the striking difference between Premier Cru Chablis and Grand Cru Chablis. There’s a reason only seven Grand Crus exist in Chablis, and that both Vaudésir and Le Clos have earned the greatest reputation. Do not miss out on this extraordinary Chardonnay collectible. Cheers!
