At SommSelect headquarters in Sonoma, CA, we’ve been enjoying that liminal space between spring and summer; the kind of weather that pushes you outdoors, blinking in the sunshine with a cool glass of wine in your hand. Today’s wine is what you want in that glass—a rosé from the spiritual home of rosé, and from an elite-level producer to boot!
Domaine de Rimauresq is one of a handful of estates in the Côtes de Provence designated Cru Classé (classified growth), with more than a century of top-level rosé production behind it, but you’d never know it from the price: As wine deals go, it doesn’t get any better! This newly arrived 2019 is fresh, mineral, and creamy all at once, with a historic pedigree and a deep connection to the dusty soils and fragrant scrubland of Provence. It treads the fine line between quaffable and collectible, but we’ll happily opt for the former; as good as it is, there’s no reason to overcomplicate things!
Domaine Rimauresq was one of the original estates to be granted Cru Classé status when the classification was created in 1955; one of the reasons for this was a tradition of excellence that dated back to their “re-establishment” in 1882 (post-phylloxera). They were integral players in the foundation of the Côtes de Provence AOC and have crafted terroir-expressive red, white, and pink wines ever since. It’s an unusual property, nestled at the base of the Massif des Maures mountains and named for the Mauresque River that runs right through their property. The mistral winds whip through the typical Provençal mix of grape varieties: everything from Rolle (a.k.a. Vermentino) to Cinsault. Thankfully, the rosés are taken just as seriously as the reds or whites—harvested by hand at the crack of dawn, given a light pressing to collect free run juice, then cooled for stabilization. They’re aged for a period on lees (spent yeast cells) with intermittent bâtonnage (lees-stirring) but malolactic fermentation is prevented to preserve the exquisite freshness that drives the flavor and aromatics.
Today’s “Rosé Classique” 2019 is indeed a “classic” combination of grapes: Grenache and Cinsault supported by a smattering of Carignan, Tibouren, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Mourvèdre and the white varietal Rolle (Vermintino). Quality in 2019 was extraordinary, and Rimauresq hits all the Provençal buttons, starting with the color: borderline salmon in the glass, flecked through with gold. It’s tempting to serve rosé ice cold but allow this wine 10 minutes out of the fridge to compose its subtle aromatic complexity. It smells like fresh strawberries, citrus zest, ginger root, and acacia blossom. The palate is surprisingly deep and mineral by comparison: Meyer lemon, white peach, wildflower, watermelon, raspberries, and crushed limestone. The finish is both creamy and tingles with good acidity for optimal food pairing and porch drinking alike.
Rimauresq quenches thirst to the point that you might never want water again, but do not forget food! We recommend barbecued chicken and sticky rice, watermelon salad with mint and feta, or a heaping pile of crawfish and corn on the cob. Remember that a rosé as structured and classic as this one will serve you well even when the nights get cooler...but let’s not think about that yet: It only just got warm!