Here’s a question for you: If every release of Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey’s masterfully chiseled, small-production Burgundies are fiercely scrapped over and flaunted as trophies, then how did we get our hands on a two-pack? The answer is simple arithmetic: Our meager allocations couldn't support a standalone PYCM offer, so we bundled them together to create a superbly rare two-pack. Even still, it’s not much of anything, but when any wine from Burgundy’s hottest winemaking talent presents itself, you graciously take whatever is bestowed.
Here’s what you need to know: Pierre-Yves’ specialty is racy, mineral, exceptionally pure Chardonnay from a wide assortment of the Côte de Beaune’s greatest terroirs and today’s multi-pack highlights a couple of standouts: His deliciously deep, creamy Saint-Aubin “Le Banc” and intensely textured Pernand-Vergelesses Premier Cru “Sous Frétille.” As is the norm with Pierre-Yves, mineral depth and laser-sharp precision is abundant in every bottle, as is their ability to age—that’s why I’m allowing two orders per person in order to encourage several additional years of cellaring. That, of course, further shrinks the number of you that will be lucky enough to own this sensational two-pack. These are some of the most sought-after whites in all of Burgundy, so don’t drag your feet on this one!
Domaine Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey is relatively new on the scene, but its lineage is undeniably impressive: Winemaker Pierre-Yves Colin is son of Marc Colin, and his wife, Caroline, is daughter to Jean-Marc Morey (both are highly regarded in the world of Burgundy). Pierre-Yves and Caroline represent modern-day Burgundian royalty and their wines are just as regal. After studying enology in Beaune, Pierre-Yves worked for his father at Domaine Marc Morey from 1994-2005, but he also learned under greats in Nôrthern Rhone, Languedoc, and the Loire Valley before setting up his own shop in 2006. He was able to do so with income generated from he and Caroline’s small négociant business started in 2001. Additionally, Pierre-Yves transferred over vineyard holdings given to him by his father to help launch his new label. Since then, everything they’ve touched has turned to gold and critics’ praise has followed.
In the vineyards, Pierre-Yves eschews the use of herbicides and opts to plow manually in an effort to further deepen the root system, which results in concentration and complexity. His Saint-Aubin is sourced from top growers in the famed “Le Banc” vineyard that follow strict sustainable practices. This sprawling hillside site looks towards Puligny-Montrachet at elevations that push past 1300 feet. Today’s second bottling, “Sous Frétille,” is a hillside Premier Cru site in Pernand-Vergelesses and it’s right next door to some elite Grand Cru vines—literally 1,000 feet from the hill of Corton!
In the winery, juice is pressed into 350-liter demi-muids rather than standard 228-liter Burgundy barrels, so as to impart less oak influence on the wine. After fermentation on native yeasts, the wine ages on its lees without bâtonnage (stirring of lees); this ensures a fresh and terroir-driven wine. After 12-18 months in barrel, the final wine is always bottled unfiltered. Oxygen is avoided as much as possible in order to retain the purities and reductive qualities of each wine.
Intricate, clean winemaking is always front and center in Pierre-Yves’ releases, as they reveal astonishing levels of tension and nerve that can only be shed with proper air exposure and/or years of cellaring. Perhaps more so than any other producer, PYCM requires a long decant: two for “Le Banc” and three for Premier Cru “Sous Frétille.” Still, these are just guidelines, and the best possible way is to use your best judgment and savor a bottle in large Burgundy stems over an entire evening, or two.
Our allocations were so limited this time around, we couldn’t even afford to open a sample bottle of each. That said, we’ve had so much PYCM, and 2018 white Burgundy, that we can confidently say today’s releases will overdeliver. Fueled by the warmth of ‘18, you can expect creamy notes of ripe citrus and orchard fruit with a powerful, mineral-etched core driving the mouthwatering Saint-Aubin. As for the Premier Cru? Expect additional dimensions of tension, depth, and verve that will exponentially expand with time. Without question, these are some of the trendiest, sought after wines on the market right now—don’t miss out!
