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Marcel Couturier, Saint-Véran “La Cour des Bois”

Other, France 2018 (750mL)
$28.00
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Marcel Couturier, Saint-Véran “La Cour des Bois”

I was first taken with the classic, almost prototypical, white Burgundy aromas of today’s wine. Next, I felt its bristling energy: no typical white Burgundy here, this was special—something new and exciting. With such favorable geology and a growing list of growers at the forefront of organic viticulture, you could argue that the villages around Saint-Véran, within the larger Mâcon region, are the most dynamic regions in Burgundy right now. 
The region is known almost entirely for white wine production, and there is perhaps no place more inextricably linked to the Chardonnay grape than the Mâcon (the grape’s very name comes from a town in the region). Once an area that was known for labels from co-ops and négociants, it is now filled with passionate, family-operated estates focusing on village designated, single-vineyard wines—like Couturier’s old-vine “La Cour des Bois.” So, when told of how much was available and that it was under $30 a bottle, we greedily snatched up each and every one. Perfectly aged white Burgundy from an organic, meticulous producer at a great price does not come our way often, and this one got me thinking: If I could drink a perfectly mature white Burgundy every day, I probably would—and with this one, I could actually afford it! White Burgundy lovers should not miss this one—there is not much to share so act fast!
Like many of today’s best producers, Marcel Couturier transformed his family from being grape growers to winemakers by starting to bottle his own wine in 2005. Located in the village of Loché, the estate has holdings of 11 hectares comprising 6 different appellations—including St. Véran, an appellation straddling Pouilly-Fuissé (where Marcel also has vineyards). “La Cour des Bois” (“courtyard of the woods”) is a unique plateau vineyard formerly the ridge of an ancient riverbed. The site is full of ancient alluvial soil and rounded river stones (galets) all girded by sandy loam and clay. Typical of the Couturier holdings, the vines from La Cour des Bois are all over 70 years old. Regenerative agriculture is the aim for Marcel, who uses certified organic and biodynamic farming methods. As part of this program, he gives free range to his chickens, geese, and guinea fowl in the vineyard to act as pest control and add natural nitrogen enrichment. 

After relatively early harvests to protect freshness, Marcel’s philosophy in the cellar is hands off. The wine is basically untouched after being put in barrel, with no racking (transfer from barrel to barrel) or bâtonnage (lees stirring), to keep the wines chiseled and taut—aided by the cold temperatures of Marcel’s deep cellar. Fermentation is done all in stainless steel using native yeasts. The wine is then aged half in stainless steel and half in 4- to 6-year-old local Burgundy barrels. 

The full-throttle drama of the celebrated 2015 vintage is on display here, and yet the wine has more tension and mouth-watering acidity than you’d expect from such a ripe year. What can I say: Some producers nailed the harvest perfectly. The color is pale gold in the center, moving to straw not the edge. Served at 50 degrees, this wine wants 30 minutes of decanting to expose the layers of aromas packed within: Bosc pear, honeysuckle, Meyer lemon, fresh almond. On the palate, there is a core of chalk and briny crunch surrounded by a roundly textured, luxurious mouthfeel with lemon oil and pineapple core. It’s delicious and a touch hedonistic with emphatic Saint-Véran minerality and freshness on the finish. I recommend serving in large Burgundy stems for the full effect and serving alongside seared sea scallops with sweet corn risotto. This may well be the sleeper hit of the Summer—I know I’ll be keeping it close at hand for the foreseeable future. Cheers!
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Country
France
Region
Other
Sub-Region
FranceSaint-Véran
Soil
Calcareous Clay
Farming
Certified Organic & Biodynamic
Blend
Chardonnay 100%
Alcohol
13.0
OAK
Used French
TEMP.
50
Glassware
Burgundy Stem
Drinking
Now-2025
Decanting
30 Minutes
Pairing
Sea Scallop Risotto

France

Bourgogne

Beaujolais

Enjoying the greatest wines of Beaujolais starts, as it usually does, with the lay of the land. In Beaujolais, 10 localities have been given their own AOC (Appellation of Controlled Origin) designation. They are: Saint Amour; Juliénas; Chénas; Moulin-à Vent; Fleurie; Chiroubles; Morgon; Régnié; Côte de Brouilly; and Brouilly.

Southwestern France

Bordeaux

Bordeaux surrounds two rivers, the Dordogne and Garonne, which intersect north of the city of Bordeaux to form the Gironde Estuary, which empties into the Atlantic Ocean. The region is at the 45th parallel (California’s Napa Valley is at the38th), with a mild, Atlantic-influenced climate enabling the maturation of late-ripening varieties.

Central France

Loire Valley

The Loire is France’s longest river (634 miles), originating in the southerly Cévennes Mountains, flowing north towards Paris, then curving westward and emptying into the Atlantic Ocean near Nantes. The Loire and its tributaries cover a huge swath of central France, with most of the wine appellations on an east-west stretch at47 degrees north (the same latitude as Burgundy).

Northeastern France

Alsace

Alsace, in Northeastern France, is one of the most geologically diverse wine regions in the world, with vineyards running from the foothills of theVosges Mountains down to the Rhine River Valley below.

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