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Clos du Mont-Olivet, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Cuvée Unique

Other, France 2018 (750mL)
$49.00
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Clos du Mont-Olivet, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Cuvée Unique

It’s been a minute (a few years, in fact) since we put a Clos du Mont-Olivet Châteauneuf-du-Pape up on SommSelect, which came as a bit of a shock to me: Since we pride ourselves on showcasing benchmark wines from the world’s greatest terroirs, it wouldn’t be out of character to offer Mont-Olivet’s newest-release “Cuvée Unique” every single year, like clockwork. A wine this prototypical, this consistent, this classic, is fundamental to one’s understanding of southern Rhône red wine.
Back when I was studying for the Master Sommelier exam, it’s the kind of wine we’d be drilled on repeatedly, because it is such an impeccable example of type. Having since had the pleasure of visiting this historic, family-run estate, I say this unequivocally: If you’d like a one-stop master class on aromatic, meaty, old-school Châteauneuf-du-Pape, you go to Clos du Mont-Olivet. Run by generations of the Sabon family since 1932, and headquartered in a stone house that overlooks the ancient papal castle that gave the town its name, Mont-Olivet is the equivalent of a Châteauneuf winemaking museum. For us, the appeal of the Mont-Olivet house style is that it emphasizes restraint and balance over monolithic power—and as such, the wines are not only delicious in their youth but have a proven track record of aging for decades. If ever a wine could be deemed “essential,” this is it!
Thierry Sabon is the latest generation to head up this estate, but he has preserved the methodologies than have served the family well over the years: Grapes are only partially de-stemmed before fermentation in cement tanks on native yeasts; this ‘partial whole cluster’ fermentation helps to tamp down some of the richness and sweetness typical of southern Rhône reds, lending them a spicy backbone. Aging takes place only in old, large-capacity barrels, and the wines are bottled unfined and unfiltered. While Grenache is the driving force in their cuvées (comprising 80% of today’s wine), the Sabons farm all the 13 different grapes the appellation allows in the Châteauneuf-du-Pape blend. Along with the Grenache, “Cuvée Unique” contains 10% Syrah and 10% Mourvèdre, sourced from nearly a dozen lieu-dits (named vineyard sites) in the north/northeastern section of the appellation, including well-known crus such as “La Crau” and “Pied de Baud.” Châteauneuf-du-Pape’s diverse range of soil types is well-represented, with a mix of the rounded river stones called galets roulés, sand, clay, and gravel.

As you might have guessed, vine age is also significant: 30-40 years. There seems to be a moderating effect provided by older vines, in that the Mont-Olivet wines always have lots of concentration but not so much that they feel overblown, sweet, or “hot”—there’s always plenty of freshness providing all-important backbone and ballast. In the glass, it’s a deep, nearly opaque purple-ruby moving to magenta at the rim, with powerful aromas of black and red fruits, violets, licorice, leather, wild herbs, and baking spices. It is full-bodied but focused, the fruit nicely framed by acidity and fine, firm tannins—beefy and muscular rather than soft and sweet. Decant it about 30 minutes before enjoying in Bordeaux stems at 60 degrees, preferably with something typical of the region. But burgers will work, too. Whenever the occasion calls for a bold red, Mont-Olivet has you covered. Enjoy!
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Country
France
Region
Other
Sub-Region
FranceChâteauneuf-du-Pape
Soil
'Galets Roulés,' Clay, Sand, Quartzite
Farming
Sustainable
Blend
Grenache 80%, Syrah 10%, Mourvèdre 10%
Alcohol
14.5
OAK
Large Foudre
TEMP.
60
Glassware
Bordeaux Stems
Drinking
Now-2035
Decanting
30-60 Minutes
Pairing
Provençal Braised Lamb

France

Bourgogne

Beaujolais

Enjoying the greatest wines of Beaujolais starts, as it usually does, with the lay of the land. In Beaujolais, 10 localities have been given their own AOC (Appellation of Controlled Origin) designation. They are: Saint Amour; Juliénas; Chénas; Moulin-à Vent; Fleurie; Chiroubles; Morgon; Régnié; Côte de Brouilly; and Brouilly.

Southwestern France

Bordeaux

Bordeaux surrounds two rivers, the Dordogne and Garonne, which intersect north of the city of Bordeaux to form the Gironde Estuary, which empties into the Atlantic Ocean. The region is at the 45th parallel (California’s Napa Valley is at the38th), with a mild, Atlantic-influenced climate enabling the maturation of late-ripening varieties.

Central France

Loire Valley

The Loire is France’s longest river (634 miles), originating in the southerly Cévennes Mountains, flowing north towards Paris, then curving westward and emptying into the Atlantic Ocean near Nantes. The Loire and its tributaries cover a huge swath of central France, with most of the wine appellations on an east-west stretch at47 degrees north (the same latitude as Burgundy).

Northeastern France

Alsace

Alsace, in Northeastern France, is one of the most geologically diverse wine regions in the world, with vineyards running from the foothills of theVosges Mountains down to the Rhine River Valley below.

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