Eden Rift, “Valliant” Chardonnay
Central Coast, United States 2018 (750mL)
Regular price$28.00
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Eden Rift, “Valliant” Chardonnay
Every day, we stake our reputation on sourcing the greatest wines on earth—be it a legendary terroir, a sensational price-to-quality ratio, a historic producer, or a classic expression of a grape. While it’s not uncommon for an offer to contain all four, it is an extremely rare occasion for that offer to be of American origin. Europe just has history and pedigree that most “local” producers simply can’t compete with. That said, today’s Eden Rift shatters the norm—it’s a value-loaded, classically styled Chardonnay from one of the most historic vine-growing terroirs in the United States.
Here’s a mind-bending fact for you: California was founded in 1850 yet Eden Rift’s property has been continuously under vine since 1849. If that doesn’t crank up the ‘wow’ factor to 11 then you and I are speaking different languages. This is for Burgundy lovers, appreciators of impeccably crafted California wine, and, above all, all those who want to experience a genuine slice of history in the bottle. It’s entirely sourced from Eden Rift’s generations-old estate vineyard, fermented naturally, and matured with a judicious touch of new French oak. The result? A Burgundian-style wine that is further enhanced by a prized and immortalized Central California terroir. All for $28? Insanity!
In 2016, owner Christian Pillsbury embarked on a mission to craft wines that emphasized this fabled terroir, a limestone-rich, maritime-influenced sanctuary that only seemed to be whispered about by seasoned vets. The goal was to let this ancient land speak for itself—nothing more, nothing less—and the results were striking: wines of absolute purity and coastal typicity emerged, which stylistically (and somewhat ironically) mirrored Calfornia’s “golden age” of the 1970s. The wines are, without question, extraordinary but hearing the rich history behind this legendary vineyard and the massive undertaking to capture its vivid soul provided us with a powerful shot of adrenaline.
Eden Rift’s vineyard was first planted by a Bordelais wine merchant in 1849 and has changed hands several times over the last 170 years, most recently in 2016. The two rising stars behind the newfound Eden Rift label are owner Christian Pillsbury and winemaker extraordinaire Cory Waller. While many would be overwhelmed by the considerable responsibility of carrying the torch for this legendary vineyard, they did it in stride—humbly, I might add. They genuinely respect their raw material and strive to serve as observant, non-intervening guardians.
Established in 1982, the Cienega Valley is one of the heartlands of heirloom vines. What many don’t know, or have forgotten, is that the greater Central Coast was a major production center for wine in the mid-1900s before the success of Napa and Sonoma Valleys. Eden Rift’s vineyard, however, goes back much further. It serves as a beacon of preservation, having preceded the actual county it resides in (San Benito) by a full quarter-century!
We’ll let the Eden Rift team further explain just what makes this vineyard so special:
Under Vine Since 1849—Eden Rift is among the oldest, continually producing estate vineyards in California. A remote, pacific refuge located under the shadow of the Gavilan Mountain Range, the estate rests on the San Andreas Fault and is part of the Cienega Valley AVA. Only 20 miles from the Pacific Ocean, this site benefits from an ideal, temperate maritime climate as well as the coveted calcareous soils requisite in the cultivation of vivid, energetic Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.
The “Valliant” is an homage to the family of the same surname that owned the property in the 1930s and ‘40s. For Pillsbury, it is a delicate style of wine that beautifully represents this historic terroir at an affordable-to-all price—just how the predecessors would’ve wanted it. Today’s 2018 is 100% Chardonnay that fermented naturally (with airborne, ambient yeasts) in 18% new French barrels. It aged for 11 months with a bimonthly lees-stirring regimen in the Spring and bottling occurred on September 19th, 2019. It’s a gorgeous wine that masterfully balances tension like the best of village-level Burgundy and the richness of Sonoma Coast. Coming in at 13.9% ABV, this wine is not light-bodied, nor is it heavy and burdensome—it brilliantly exists in the happy medium. It erupts with energetic notes of yellow apple, yellow peach, pineapple, juicy white pear, lemon curd, lime blossom, vanilla bean, lees, crushed stones, and fresh white flowers. The palate offers up vivid notes of orchard and citrus fruits with a faint hint of exoticism, but all the delicious ripeness is kept in check by persisting waves of acidity and tension. It’s undoubtedly a stellar Chardonnay performance, but at $28, it’s downright sensational. Enjoy cool, around 50 degrees, in Burgundy stems and pull the corks on your stash over the next 3-5 years. Cheers!
